Gannets Galore
It’s getting late so we head straight to our lodging for the next two nights - Hotel Motel Vagues Vertes (Green Waves). The third generation owner greets us warmly, offering an upgrade to the end unit, a view of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, passing freighters and a very early sunrise. The small kitchenette makes for an easy supper preparation of sausage and salad. We head to bed early. Tomorrow we plan on taking the boat excursion to Bonaventure Island to hike and see the northern gannet colony.
I am awake at 4:00am. The day is already bright; lobster boats dot the bay, fishermen laying their traps. We have heard about the increased population of lobster, apparently coming from the Maine coast as the waters there warming to unfamiliar temperatures.
We pack up our cameras, water and snacks and head to the Perce wharf to board Julien Steve, along with about 40 other passengers. It is overcast now with hints of blue sky peeking through. This excursion to Bonaventure Island and Perce Rock National Park, was planned months before leaving home. The tours only started this past weekend so, for once, we are not too early.
Our first “stop” is Perce Rock, named by Samuel de Champlain in 1607. The tour boat takes us to the north side of the island which is one of the world’s largest natural arches located in water. This major Gaspe Region attraction, essentially a large block of limestone, stands 289 feet at its highest point. The pierce or hole is 49 feet high. Our tour guide tells us approximately 300 tons of rock erodes and falls into the sea each year. Many shoals and jagged rocks fill the water around the rock island.
We are amazed to see two small moose standing on what appears to be the only available shoreline. We find this odd - there is no food there. They can walk out from the mainland at low tide but all wonder - why?
Taking the small run across to Bonaventure Island we are soon viewing grey seals, basking and swimming. Murres, razorbills and gannets abound! The gannet colony here is reported to be as high as 150,000 birds. We disembark at the park wharf and begin the hour long walk to the far shore. It is warm but the walk is pleasant.
Common Murre on Percé Rock.
Grey seals basking on the cool rocks
We first experienced northern gannets on our journey down the St. Lawrence River. Their diving ability from great heights - like torpedos - was a spectacle. Apparently, they can reach speeds of 65km per hour while diving for food. They never seem to miss their catch of fish.
Here we don’t see any diving or fishing. They are nesting. The pairs are easy to spot as they huddle near each other, however, the males and females have no distinguishing features. These seabirds are monogamous but do separate when their chicks leave the nest. Somehow, they find each other again the following year.
The area is anything but quiet. 150,000 birds can make a real racket. Each couple appears to be arguing about something. Heads shaking back and forth, necks stretched. Perhaps they are only defending their nest, of earth and sea debris, from the others in the very crowded neighborhood. Then you see the odd pair with their necks almost wrapped together in a “hug”. They only lay one egg. We are thrilled to witness this whole phenomenon. It is amazing to think they will leave this area as soon as September, with their young, to fly south for the winter.
Multiply the white area by four…that’s how big the gannet colony was.
After many photos we continue our walk around the shore, stopping to view swimming seals and the splendour of Perce Rock in the distance. There are half a dozen deserted homesteads along the west shore, witness to the once busy fishing port from 1790 to 1845.
We are hungry and thirsty when we arrive back at the dock ninety minutes later. The small cafe is just closing but we grab coffee and a bag of trail mix. The tour boat takes us back to the mainland and we find Pub Pit Caribou for a cold beverage and a small snack.
After a short stop for some souvenirs and groceries, we return to our motel for a late supper of BBQd pork chops and salad. Dinner is at the picnic table outside of our room. The view is calm and splendid. We bask in the memory of an exceptional day.
