Retourner a la Rivière
It is hot! Ontario and Eastern Canada are experiencing unusual heat and humidity on the 19th day of June. We are sitting in 34’C with the humidex, here in Lewisporte, NL but the southwest breeze is keeping things somewhat pleasant.
We installed the sails last night and first thing this morning, before the wind picked up again, the hull is somewhat clean and the bottom painted. Our mechanic has repaired and reinstalled the centreboard and the autohelm and the cabin is now totally liveable.
It was time to get out of the heat, to the cool of the clubhouse, and begin writing about our journey so far this summer.
After a three week visit with kids in Squamish, BC we had four days at home to see the local family, prepare our house for our departure and to finish our boat packing. Ten days with children and grandchildren in eastern Ontario and Quebec gave us the chance to relax before our road trip east and the real work once we arrived at the marina.
Our goal was to drive the St. Lawrence River, visiting places where we had stopped on our 2021 cruise from Bowmanville, Ontario.
The Prince Shoal Light and Saguenay hills in the distance.
Some locations we drove by or through - Montreal, Sorel, Trois RIvieres, Portneuf. After crossing the Pierre Laporte Bridge at Quebec City, we followed the southern shore all the way to the Gaspe. The car is quiet; we hardly speak. CBC entertains us while we reflect on recent family visits and contemplate on the days ahead.
Our Cacouna visit will be in September this year, on our way back home, so we drove through, listening to Andre Gagnon “Kamouraska”, as we passed by the small villages heading east, driving further east than we have before. Trois Pistoles provided necessary fuel for the car and gelato for us. The view here was magnificent. We can see the Prince Shoal Lighthouse at the entrance to the Saguenay. We still pinch ourselves remembering we actually sailed by these places, along this grand river.
The road becomes quite twisty at Bic National Park. When we anchored at Anse a l’Orignal we had no idea there even was a road behind the hills that lined the anchorage.
At Rimouski we are delighted to find Point au Pere Lighthouse, where the weather information came from during our cruise. This 33 metre high structure, built in 1909, has a very characteristic shape. There are eight concrete buttresses supporting the slender central tower. Unfortunately, we cannot tour it as it will not open for the season for a couple of days.
Point au Pere Lighthouse and Empress of Ireland Museum, depicting a sinking ship.
Historically, the light is associated with the worst maritime disaster in Canada - the sinking of the luxury liner RMS Empress of Ireland in 1914. The lighthouse received an SOS telegraph from the liner after it collided with the Norwegian bulk carrier, Storstad, in thick fog. She was gone in 14 minutes and 1,012 of the 1,477 passengers perished.
The Point au Pere National Historic Site includes the Empress of Ireland Museum and the Onondaga Submarine. I have been interested in the story of the Empress of Ireland since I first heard of it so will have to return on a day when the museum is open.
Le Gaspésiana hotel at St. Flavie is our first stop. It has been a long day but we have to head to Capitaine Homard’s for lobster dinner. (Thanks for the tip, Barb and John!) It is easy to find the restaurant, with its large red doorway. The ceiling and interior are filled with fishing and coastal memorabilia and equipment. The place is busy but our server is extremely helpful and speaks English beautifully. She recommends the Lobster Thermidor after the lobster stuffed ravioli and fried lobster cakes. Way too much food and we will not be looking for lobster any day soon.
Our hotel is very quiet. We witness a lovely sunset and watch the tide come and go. A few freighters can be seen on the north shore as we enjoy a delicious, complimentary breakfast. Well-nourished, we walk to Centre d’Art M. Gagnon to view “Le Grand Rassemblement”. (The Grand Gathering) From the sculptor’s website: “a unique nature artwork in the world with more than 80 life-size sculptures emerging from the St. Lawrence River and which are transformed before the eyes of visitors according to the tides…made of reinforced concrete (each) weighs more than 685 kg”. Very unique and interesting.
The unique art of Marcel Gagnon at St. Flavie
We check out of the hotel and continue east along the river, passing Matane and arriving in Sainte Anne des Monts in extreme wind and cool temperatures. Pretty much the same conditions we were in when we docked here in 2021.
The lighthouse at Cap des Rosiers is on our agenda, until I realize it is a 3 hour round trip from the main highway. Not this time. We do stop at La Martre to see the red lighthouse - “the crown jewel of the Gaspe lighthouses”.
Fog settles around us. The hills disappear and then show themselves again as we wind our way along the shore, passing the many small villages of the Gaspesie.
La Martre Lighthouse
The Cantine du Pecheur is open at Cloridorme - we are thrilled. This was a favourite spot for lunch while we waited for repairs at the dock here. I walk the beach, looking for sea glass while Harald waits for our lobster rolls. Even more delicious in this memorable setting.
Rounding Pointe Sainte Pierre we have our first view of Perce Rock. We expect our two days here will be remarkable.
Our first view of Perce Rock, on a cloudy day.