Our Last Stop on the Western Shore
Terra Nova National Park will be behind us today, Wednesday July 17, as we head back northeast, up Newman Sound to the southeast tip of the Eastport Peninsula.
The water is metal grey and the sky not much lighter, but the wind and sea state our favourable for travel, with just 16 nautical miles to go to today’s destination.
Harald raises the mainsail just outside the narrows and we enjoy a beam reach, with the wind coming along the side of the boat. We are not moving fast but it is peaceful without the engine running.
Being on the water brings the thoughts of the floods at home, and people missing on the Grand River and Lake Erie through a different perspective. There is a couple missing who set sail for the Azores from Halifax and tomorrow we will learn of the seven missing fishermen from New-Wes-Valley. Cruising comes with responsibilities and we like to think we will be ready if danger presents itself. Weather is our best friend and our worst enemy so we approach it with respect.
The hills at The Narrows, Terra Nova National Park
At 1:30pm we are anchored in Smokey Hole in the southwest corner of Barrow Harbour. Anchoring was a challenge as the little basin is small with some unknown water depths. Equinox was here and really enjoyed their stay so we know it is possible. We have 200 feet of swing room and hope no other boat appears at the tight entrance.
We are getting accustomed to these narrow spaces. Obviously these appeared sheltered in days gone by so we can understand why fishermen settled in them with their families.
Smokey Hole has six cabins, each with a little dock and scattered outbuildings. There are no boats here today so we assume we will be alone but this might change on the weekend when the residents return for the three days of cod fishing. We will not be staying more than one night, so we will never know nor will we meet the people of Smokey Hole.
There are, however, a significant number of resident jelly fish, some larger than a dinner plate. We have also read about the large kelp growing here. There is no cell service so we read and I make a little painting of one of the cabins. The breeze pics up before supper and we get a little rain. When it calms again the water surface is covered in a fine mist. The mosquitoes are expected as we are so close to shore so we retreat to the cabin, play some cards and head to bed early.
I wake early to find we are sitting in a cloud of fog. The cabins just two hundred feet away have disappeared. I go back to bed as there is clearly no rush to get underway, happy with photos of our youngest granddaughter that somehow magically found us through the night of no cell service.
During our breakfast we watch the fog in the channel, as it slowly retreats allowing us to depart at 10:30. Harald has spent the morning checking the engine oil and belts and reattaching the support arm on the radar pole. I check harbours, distances and weather forecasts on the VHF radio.
I make a picnic lunch as we expect to be five hours crossing Bonavista Bay to the town of Bonavista, our furthest eastern destination to date.
