Bonavista Bound!

This is the day we have been planning since we left Lewisporte on June 24. We are heading to Bonavista, the most easterly destination yet on our Newfoundland and Labrador tour. We visited there by car in 2017 but only saw the lighthouse and the John Cabot statue. It was raining and we were putting in some time before check in at our BnB.

We also know we will be crossing “the trough” where the artist in Salvage told us we might see some “whale action”…..anticipation is high as we approach the deep water of the thirteen kilometre long area where a pod of five sperm whales just might be waiting to meet us.

As if on cue, there they are! The blow at a 45’ angle is the first clue then we see the sleek black bodies laying on the surface, just as we were told they would be.  We are grateful for the flat water so they are visible and not a threat.  The photo doesn’t really do justice to its size but the head, which takes up one third of its length, is on the right of my photo.  I am glad it is not any closer.  Between fifty and seventy feet long, is not something I want to tangle with.

Later there are minkes or fin whales and puffins galore. Nearing the approach to the Bonavista Harbour, we are entertained by a pod of dolphins “playing” off our bow.

While trying to photograph the Cape Bonavista Lighthouse from a distance, my field of vision picks up a few more fins.

A large fog bank appears to be rolling in from the northeast but will not come as far south as the Bonavista. This is a relief as we deal with the anticipation of a new harbour, another narrow entrance and large break walls. The buoys are exactly as shown on the chart and the day is sunny and clear. The town and landmarks are quite easily spotted as we make our way in.

I have called ahead to the Jerry, the harbour master, and we see him making his way down the floating dock to take our lines.

Another friendly face is there to greet us too. After my call out on Facebook for information regarding taxi service in Bonavista, I got a response from Lewisporte friend, Bob, saying his car would be here for the week and we are welcome to use it. Well that makes life a whole lot easier! He will be sailing back here on SlipNaway. As I’ve said before, “timing is everything!” Bob has just arrived at the parking lot and is there to take our lines. Thank you, Bob!

The warm welcome, the easy entrance and a day of whale watching has made this an exceptional day. It is extremely warm so it’s not long before we shed our long sleeves and long pants and begin exploring.

We meet our neighbour, Don, on Zephyr, and know immediately we are in good company. Don is from Port de Grave; a beautiful photo of its lighthouse is displayed along the fly bridge. This was a fishing boat which he refurbished into a pleasure yacht. Unfortunately we never got a tour but enjoyed standing along side listening to Don’s many stories of the years he fished - near misses and accidents - including the one that paralyzed him at the age of twenty-eight.

We stop by the harbour master’s office and find the washrooms and laundry. An overnight stay is $15 so we feel we can stay until the weather tells us it is time to leave.

After freshening up we head to town. First stop is the large blue building at the top of the wharf; it houses the replica of John Cabot’s Matthew. We will return tomorrow for the tour, but pick up some tourist information and get directions to Ragged Rocks for dinner.

The short walk down Church Street takes us past many of the 1000 heritage buildings here in Bonavista. Churches, the courthouse and many others that are now private homes. It is like a walk back in time.

The Public Building and Provincial Court, including carriage gun, stocks and whipping post from 1900.

The Orange Hall, built in 1907

Passing Memorial United Church we stop to view some gravestones that are near the sidewalk. There are several in memory of young men who died in action in France in the First World War, including one who died in Flanders in 1916. Another died of exposure, while on leave to visit his parents, after being landed from his torpedoed ship. He was eighteen years old.

Just one of many old homes that are now restaurants, shops and holiday rentals.

We take a walk to the break wall before heading to bed. This has been a wonderful day. There will be more to see tomorrow.