The Journey Within The Journey - Part One
It’s been a month since we left home and high time I shared our journey so far. Most of our days have been spent preparing and repairing the boat, but we’ve also had some time to explore this gorgeous place called Newfoundland & Labrador and to spend time with its friendly people.
This is the story of our two week driving tour, ending at Port Saunders, NL.
Skipper Harald is relieved to find her as we left her.
The drive down the river toward Quebec is interesting from the shore perspective. We stop at the Richeleau Rapids just for fun. Nothing is happening just like when we sailed through last summer but miscalculated the time of the fast water. The radio reminds us of the approaching storm which we can see now is following us. The rain begins just as we stop for a photo at the Portneuf Marina and then for ice cream cones, served with funny plastic cups to catch the drips.
The rain is torrential when we arrive at our Quebec Airbnb and due to a mixup with the keys, we find someone in our suite. As the suites are identical, we move into the other and head to the grocery store, hoping the rain subsides by the time we return.
Waking to a lovely, sunny, warm day we pack the car again and make the 5 minute drive to Montmorency Falls. We walk the grounds in awe of the 83 metre waterfalls, 30 metres higher than Niagara Falls! Climbing part way up the viewing platforms is enough for us before heading across the bridge to I’le d’Orleans.
The island, just 5 km east of Quebec City, is described as “the microcosm of traditional Quebec and as the birthplace of Francophones in North America” (Wikipedia). About 7000 people live on the island which consists of 6 villages. We’re here for the berries, the cheese, the wine and the chocolate….and the scenery.
As the season is just beginning, many places are not yet open, including the Chocolatier. We do find many fresh strawberries and have a tasty stop at the Fromagerie for goat cheese, goat ice cream and a visit with the goats in the garden.
We find and climb the lookout tower at St. Francois, finding an incredible view of the island, the archipelago and Cap Tourmente as recommended by Heidi’s neighbours, Anne and Mark. We are too early for the blooming lavender fields.
The afternoon is passing so we cross the Pierre Laporte Bridge and drive the south shore of the river toward our stop for the night with my sister’s friends at Cacouna. The unique architectural heritage is depicted in the enclave of “cottages” high above the river. We sense we are in for a treat of an evening.
As we chat over gin and tonic on the front porch, they ask us a bit about our journey last year. Somehow St. Paul’s River is mentioned and our host tells us he knows one person there. Who else could it be, but our friend Garland Nadeau. We fondly remember meeting Garland and how he took such good care of us when anchored there. The “small world” scenarios are starting already.
After our dinner we visit their winter home across the street and St. James the Apostle Anglican Church, which is boarded up waiting to open for July and August services. We meet the visiting priest and tour the parsonage as well. The church is over 150 years old, constructed solely of wood. Our host was a boy when his father preached here in the summer months.
It’s raining the next morning when we meet downstairs for breakfast and more conversation. We pack the car again, share our goodbyes and head to Moncton with the invitation to stay again on our return trip. Truly a special stop. Thank you.
Our first stop is at Florenceville-Bristol for gas and a bathroom, but the fried clams and chips at the chip wagon look too good to pass up…lunch at the picnic table - welcome to New Brunswick!
The “Beware of Moose” signs are very large here, even along the Trans Canada Highway and the lupin are plentiful along the side of the road.
Arriving in Moncton we check in at the Best Western and unload the coolers again. A short walk gets us to St. Louis Bar and Grill, noisy on a Saturday night but the food is good.
Harald’s Father’s Day starts at the Hopewell Rocks when we arrive just as the park opens at the 9:00am low tide. The park is already swarming with tourists like us, trying for their epic shots without other people.
It’s a sunny day - blue sky and warm. The short walk down the trail from the visitor’s centre, takes us to the first viewing platform of the large “flowerpots”. Soon we have climbed down all the stairs and are walking on the ocean floor, in awe of the large sea stacks formed by tidal erosion. . A quick visit to the gift shop and we depart with a stuffed puffin and a lobster. Can’t wait to get them in the mail.
We eat our picnic lunch while we drive further east, arriving in Springhill Nova Scotia at 1:30. We thoroughly enjoy touring the Anne Murray Centre, an incredibly detailed depiction of the singer-songwriter’s 40 year career. We’re back on the road again and heading toward our destination for the next two nights: Mulgrave, NS. We find the Airbnb to be very comfortable and well-stocked, especially after we unload the cooler.
Tomorrow we will spend the day touring Cape Breton Island.
Very important business needs to be completed before heading out for our day of sightseeing. We have a new Puffin and a friendly Lobster to mail to the kids in Summerstown. Harvey was quite disappointed that he could not keep our “Puff”, which was a parting gift from my dad, and a companion for Biscuit. The Mulgrave Post Office is old but the young clerk is very helpful and shares in our fun.
We cross the Canso Strait, just minutes from our door, with our first stop being the information centre. At the recommendation of the information host, we head up the west side of the island toward Pleasant Bay where she suggests we lunch at the Rusty Anchor.
We stop along the way to walk some of the Coastal Trail and to view the beach at Port Hood. As I get out of the car, I hear a voice say, “well, hello neighbour”. I don’t know the woman but she has spotted “VW Waterloo” on our license plate.
This couple live in Petersburg, Ontario and are visiting with friends who live in Baddeck. They tell us they used to own a cottage in Muskoka, so we ask where, exactly. Somehow, their cottage happened to be across from the one owned by mutual friend, Ken. Such a small world! (Again). Photos are taken and shared to Facebook, with a very quick response from Ken.
We continue on with a stop in Cheticamp, hoping friends, Ken and Carol Gillstrom have not left yet for PEI, where they will begin their summer teaching excursions aboard their sailboat. This year they will head to Newfoundland’s south coast, then to Corner Brook and back to PEI. Unfortunately, we cannot see their boat and we know our paths will not cross this year.
A change of plans takes us across the top of the island, through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, as the Rusty Anchor is closed due to “staff shortage”. The twists and turns, the ups and downs, take us to some magnificent vistas - just like the guidebook and the commercials claim!
We do find a late lunch at “Coastal Restaurant & Pub”, featured on the “food network” as “You Gotta Eat Here”. The local beer, seafood chowder, mussels and crab sandwich are all delightful. This is in Ingonish, so by the time we return to Port Hastings, we will have driven around the entire west side of Cape Breton Island.
The Algoma Mariner is loading at the quarry at Mulgrave as we cross back over to finish our day and begin to prepare for the next. Coming back for a second night to the same place is relaxing after a long day.
