On The Big Lake 2020
Seabiscuit in bay east of Little Bluff Conservation Area in Prince Edward Bay. Waupoos Island at stern.
Seabiscuit took us to Kingston on our cruise vacation in July, transiting the Murray Canal, visiting Bay of Quinte, Prince Edward County, anchoring in Presqu’ile Bay, Prinyer Cove, Stella Bay, Waupoos, and Cobourg.
This is not a full account but I have detailed the days where we had the most to share.
Friday July 24:
My right foot in an air cast after ankle break on June 30.
4 months into Covid-19 pandemic…..
Sat July 25:
Up at 5:30. Coffee and smoothies made and off the dock at 6:05. Beautiful sunrise.
Stopped outside of the harbour to “bless the boat”...champagne and delivery of prayers to the gods who created and watch over the seas and the wind. A few words from Mark Twain:
“Twenty years from now you will be disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover”
Motoring at 2600 rpms, we expected to be in Presqu’ile Bay for cocktails. Until the engine died at 7:00am. Full tank of diesel, no electrical issues. Perhaps air in the line? Dirty fuel? Bio material shaken up in the tank during the transport from Wiarton?
Harald starts making phone calls. A call to Cobourg Marina where they recommend two mechanics. Mechanics are as rare as unicorns.
Cobourg Marina gives us the number of the Coast Guard from their harbour and confirms they can tow us in to the North Wall, where we can stay for the night.
Harald tells them it is not an emergency; we are ok, still sailing and heading their direction. They ask us to call them from the entrance to the harbour. (hear many other emergency calls so we are comfortable in our decision to leave the CG to those who really need them right now)
The sail is nice, quiet. But then the wind starts to die and we are travelling at 2 knots or less, realizing our arrival to the entrance of Cobourg Harbour will be at dark. Wing-on-wing, passing Port Hope at 3:30pm. We can see the channel markers for Cobourg.
We call the CG again and they agree to come for us, but only after they make a call to “any boat in the area that might provide assistance”. There is no response and about 30 min later when we see them approaching us in their orange Zodiac at 5:30. We are about 2 miles west of Peter Rock when they arrive. We are asked if “you folks have any Covid issues” then one officer climbed onto our bow to secure the bridle and tow line and we just sat back and enjoyed the ride.
About 1 mile from the harbour entrance, our radio starts blaring a Mayday signal. A boat is on fire in Presqu’ile Bay - “all stations, all stations”. In a matter of seconds, our tow line is tossed toward us, the CG don their helmets and they are gone. 350hp. Out of site in less than a minute.
And we bob. No wind. It is warm but we are safe.
Give’r, J Boat 88, calls us to ask if we would like assistance. I tell them the CG will be returning in about 30 min but they still want to come for a visit. Nice couple from Toronto who took 2 years off work to circumnavigate the world. They stay with us for about 20 min when the CG returns at 7:45. (These guys must be exhausted)
This time they “take us on the hip”, by securing 3 lines along our deck. They are close enough for some conversation. We learn they work 24 hour shifts, 14 days on and 14 days off...and it has been a very busy season already. (Lots of new boat owners with little experience)
CG calls a securite before we enter the narrow Cobourg channel - we’re about 22’ wide with the Zodiac on our port side. They bring us in to the North Wall at the far end of the harbour, with me steering for both vessels. Their ground officer is waiting for us to take the lines and the one who climbed aboard, does so again to manage the bow lines. They are skilled and swift and very appreciated!
Not expecting to be in Cobourg again so soon since our July 1 anchoring, I mention to Harald, as we’re passing the public wharf, to watch for Jayne Finn and Mike Evans from Loonslace. They live here and can’t access their boat on the west coast of Newfoundland. I’d been following them on Instagram and knew they were just home from a camping trip in Northern Ontario.
As we arrived at the dock, at 8:15pm I look up and there they are! Our mentors were out for their evening walk and standing right where we had docked. Such coincidence or fate? We had a short chat and they promised to stay in touch and to assist how they can.
We decide to put up the full enclosure, anticipating the onslaught of bugs we had the last time in the bay, but also as rain is expected in next few days and a bit of privacy from the Esplanade would be nice.
A very long 14 hours on the water, most of it cruising at less than 3 knots.
But a free tow and a night at the dock, gratis...and we still have a mostly full tank of diesel.
Jokes aside about us being frequent flyers with the Coast Guard, we are very grateful for their presence. Having witnessed how many times they were called out to assist when we were here earlier in July and how their mandate is to help all, whether a kite boarder in trouble, a boat on fire, a boat taking on water or boats with dead engines. They provide a remarkable service even if, in the words of the zodiac’s helmsman, “most of it is for stupid reasons”. They respond regardless and are quiet with their opinions.
Sunday July 26:
Early on Harald spots the sailboat two ahead of us on the wall, is flying a GLCC burgee. He stops for a chat on his next trip to the washroom: Gandydancer from Toronto. Greta and Jay. Their boat, also owned for 3 years, is a 36’ Tartan. They also offer to assist however they can. As they have the same sail plan as we have (had?), we expect we might see each other again.
Greta also tells us that the little sailboat docked between us is expecting a mechanic!
Marine Identification unit of Canada Border Services is walking the docks looking for American boats here against the Covid pandemic - closed USA/Canada border.
It is again a very hot, humid day but a lovely breeze so we are glad to be on the water, even if at a dock.
Ralph, the mechanic, does indeed arrive to work on the other sailboat....until after 5:00pm. He stops by to tell us he can’t start working on Seabiscuit’s engine now but will on Monday. He agrees to have a look, off the clock. Fortunately he took the 30 min to assess as that is when he spots the Racor Filter, that with its plastic bowl is no longer up to code. (And neither is Mike’s) He can’t work on our engine without that being replaced first.
He gives us a shopping list of parts and promises to return once we have secured the new filter.
Monday July 27
The alarm set for 8:30 isn’t needed as we are awakened at 6:30 by two people who decide to have a loud conversation, full of laughter, sitting on the bench right outside the v-berth hatch.
We head to Dean Marine where the owner orders what we need and we are told it will all arrive at 4:00 Tuesday morning. We will be there at 10:00 when he opens, with Ralph close on our heels.
From Dean Marine, it is a very short walk to the famous “Buttermilk Cafe”. The service is friendly and efficient and the buttermilk pancakes packed with wild blueberries are amazing! Thanks for the tip, Deb and Angus!
Another hot, humid day, again. 28’C with 38’C humidex.
Fate? Coincidence? What brought us to Cobourg?
We finally met Jayne and Mike and we are parked just feet from other GLCC members.
We are safe in a lovely small town with just about anything we need within walking distance.
The weather has been lovely, and the breeze refreshing from the lake.
Parts are ordered and mechanic on standby.
Back at the boat, Harald removes the old Racor filter and I journal, while we wait for the rain expected about 2:00. Would prefer rain now, while we’re here, putting in time, rather than during our short few days with Dave, Amanda and Harvey. The rain comes between 2:00 and 3:00. We spend much of the afternoon and evening opening and closing hatches. Beautiful rainbow across the harbour.
Turkey dinner aboard followed by ice cream at Harbourlights Delights. The “creme brûlée” was delicious! Many people out after the rain, on patios and walking the pier. Back to the boat for some reading and more rain showers.
Tuesday July 28
Gandydancer has departed for Bay of Quinte; looks like lots of wind on the open water, sunny and 24’C, 29C humidex.
Unfortunately, the Racor is not what we had ordered. No metal bowl. Ralph will install it but won’t certify the job. He can’t start the engine repair until the filter is installed.
Ralph agrees to install the new filter “as an emergency” and we promise to install a metal bowl at the end of the season.
$390 for Ralph, $390 for the Racor filter and $135 for two nights (one free) at the marina, a trip to the LCBO and breakfast at the Buttermilk. $1000 start to our vacation. Expected worse. Diesel Mechanics 101, gratis.
3:10 departure hoping for some wind to take us east
24’C 29’C with humidex. Apparently 25km SW wind.
Not enough sailing to mention. Windy but behind us. Large swells following. Motored 18 miles
6:55 enter the channel at Presqu’ile Point but can’t see the range in the setting sun. Chart plotter has all channel buoys. Paper chart has none.
On recommendation from Andy of Sailing Sailfish we drop the anchor in the bay just past the first dock. 7:25 pm. Many large homes. Water 22’C. Swim and a very late spaghetti supper under a gorgeous sunset.
Looking forward to dinner tomorrow with Mary Ellen Duncan on her new Douglas 32 docked at Stillwater Marina, just west of the first bridge at Belleville.
Wed July 29
Early awake. Red sunrise at 5:54
Some light rain from 8-9am
28’C with humidex
SW 11km wind
12:30 depart from our anchorage and head down the channel marking the west entrance to the Murray Canal. Dozens of swans in the bay before the canal.
The canal, part of the Trent-Severn Waterway, is approximately 8km long and took 7 years to build from 1882, due to problems with the unstable banks. It shortens the trip for boats wishing to access Lake Ontario from the central and western Bay of Quinte by avoiding having to go around the whole peninsula of Prince Edward County.
Approaching the first bridge, The Brighton Road Swing Bridge, the operator continues to call the power boat behind us, asking them to close the gap with us. A bit anxious as seems the bridge won’t open in time and we don’t quite understand how we are to pay.
But all goes according to plan and I stand on the bow to deposit our $5 (don’t wait for 5cents change) into the little copper bowl on the end of a long stick offered by the operator.
Transiting the Murray Canal.
Heading east at the Brighton Street Bridge
4:10pm arrived at Stillwater Basin with several calls from Mary Ellen, directing us into the small marina. 300’ off shore, we are told to turn when abreast of the very narrow entrance. We have second thoughts, but she tells us she has friends ready to help us dock. But unfortunately, the wind catches our bow just as we enter and we bump the eastern wall, with the stern swinging into the concrete pier that extends into the entrance.
Everyone tries to help but 16,000lbs can’t be stopped. Harald’s ego is bruised more than the hull. Mary Ellen is knowledgeable on the needed fix and offers to drive Harald to Canadian Tire for the needed resin. They will do the repair in the morning and in the meantime, some rum and pineapple juice and a nice chicken and rice dinner aboard Silhouette puts Harald into a happier mood.
Silhouette and Seabiscuit at Stillwater Basin, Belleville
Thursday July 30
After breakfast, Mary Ellen and Harald completed temporary repair to the damaged bow.
Departed at 10:00, before any wind, with help off the dock, but like threading a needle to get out to the bay. (See narrow entry behind our two boats)
Very little wind through the day which took us through The Bay of Quinte, past CFB Trenton, the heart-stopping bridges at Belleville, South Reach and Adolphus Reach, settling in at Prinyer Cove where we will stay until Monday.
Civic Holiday Weekend
The weekend was warm and stormy, with the occasional opportunity to swim but mostly spent opening and closing hatches. We were entertained by a family of swans, the resident osprey and boats attempting to anchor (and remain anchored) in the strong wind and torrential rain. (Later learned four tornados touched down just 20km north near Napanee)
Stormy day in Prinyer Cove
Up early after a windy night (30 knots at 3:00am) and depart for Stella Bay where three boats grows to 16 by the end of the day. What a very friendly place! We are all anchored within throwing distance of the many cottages in the small bay, yet all welcome us with waves and boat side chats. We will return here after we pick up our guest-crew in Collins Bay on Wednesday.
Wed Aug 5
We are awakened early - 2:30am, I sense the wind shift and feel the water coming under the bow. When I look out the companionway, I see a bowsprit right behind our stern. I call Harald and we proceed to try to wake the inhabitants, who weren’t here when we went to bed at 11:00.
The skipper and his wife come on deck, speaking mostly French and asking us to hold our boat steady while he raises his anchor? As he begins to haul the anchor they come closer to the point when I reach over THEIR lifelines and drop THEIR fenders between our two hulls. We can’t believe they passed 10 boats to anchor behind us, in the dark! They don’t stay, making their way out to the open water. Back to bed for us.
We are able to sail once out of the bay, with 10-20 knot NW wind. With a reefed main, we maintain 4.5 to 6.5 knots as we head to Collins Bay Marina.
After some “dancing” around the gas dock, we arrive for a pump out and 56 litres of diesel. Dockage for one night is $70.20. Very helpful staff who meet us at our slip to assist with the docking.
The slip is narrow and we find ourselves again in the wind, but Harald eases us into the slip with only a minute of fanfare.
The sky is very threatening and the wind continues when David, Amanda and 5 month old Harvey arrive about 4:00.
Another day of threatening weather as we wait for our guests at Collins Bay Marina near Kingston
Thursday August 6
Harvey wakes early, and we are delighted with the happy, cooing from the aft cabin. We don’t linger long in bed as we have groceries to buy and want to get to Stella Bay before it gets busy.
The night was a bit short, with the constant sound of trains and whistles and planes overhead landing at the nearby airport. We are looking forward to the solitude of an anchorage.
Stella Bay is empty of boats when we arrive so we take our time hooking in to the “best” spot. Our two days are so enjoyable we decide to stay another night. It is so comforting to see our guests relaxed and enjoying their time with us. We are delighted for the company and the time together.
We are all happy.
A vessel Vitae arrives and anchors near us. The man sees “Wiarton” on our transom and starts a conversation with David on the bow. Vitae used to be Leadership from our dock in Wiarton. Dave explains to David that his great grandfather was one of the 6 men responsible for bringing electricity to Wiarton.
As we set to depart on Tuesday, Dave and Regina (Vitae) stop by with fresh donuts from “Donut Saturday” at The Back Kitchen. For future reference, you have to be there, lined up before opening to snag the delicious treats.
We are sorry to see our special time with the kids come to an end but know we have to move on. It is with heavy hearts that Harald and I leave Collins Bay and head to Amherst Bay for the night.
Sunday August 9
Overnight the wind shifts to the south and we spend the night rolling, with me in aft cabin listening to the water sloshing in the tank beneath me.
With 18-20 knots of wind on our bow, we slam through into Prince Edward Bay, arriving at the Waupoos Marina at 9:00am. The couple next to us assure us there is lots to walk to and enjoy: help yourself butter tart stand, wood oven pizza, pick your own blueberries and of course, the Waupoos Winery.
After a late bacon and egg breakfast the 4km walk (remember the broken ankle) to the Waupoos Marina cheers us and makes the visit worthwhile. We stopped by the “on your honour” butter tart store but agree to buy the next morning before we leave the area. (Actually, never did get back there)
Arriving at the winery at 1:00, we have to wait for lunch. Many COVID protocols are in place, including masks to be worn, unless seated, no inside dining and only limited people allowed in the store at one time.
We take in a small tasting in sprinkling rain and arrive back at the restaurant at 2:00 to find our table is ready. We both opt for the fish and chips - pickerel - delicious! After telling the waitress we are interested in buying a case of selected wines (30% discount helped!) but have no way to carry it back to the marina, she confirms either she will drive us back when we are finished shopping.
Charcuterie board for dinner, after a lazy afternoon in the cockpit - content from the walk, the wine and a big lunch.
Mon August 10 to Wed August 12
We waken at 6:30 rain and some distant thunder. The sun, however, is a red ball, rising beyond the rain. Going to be a hot day!
By 10:30 the sky has cleared and we watch the Laser and Topaz sailing class head out for their races.
Leaving the dock without issue at 1:00, we are able to sail between Van Dousens Point and Morrison Point after one tack to keep us out of the shallow water. A short rain shower as we cross Prince Edward Bay, but only my legs get wet while at the helm. Not cold enough to worry about being damp.
Little Bluff is not as large as it appears and the beach on the south side of the bay is not sand, but fist-sized rocks, clearly manmade. There is a “closed, not maintained” sign but we do see bikers and hikers come through the bush to sit or swim. The water is 12’ right to the shore.
We make plans to wake at 3:30am to venture out on the deck with the hope of seeing some of the Perseid’s Meteor Shower, which is to peak tonight. We were not disappointed: 25 shooting stars and at least one fire ball in less than an hour. Back to bed and off the hook at 7:30 Wednesday morning.
Wed Aug 12
It’s official - we are on our way home - heading west.
We left the bay beside Little Bluff, in Prince Edward Bay, across from Waupoos Island, this morning before 8:00 after spending two nights there. The plan originally was to leave the Waupoos area and to head out to the open water of Lake Ontario and not to return home the way we came through the inside passage. But little wind and no places to stop along the way until Presqu’ile, was not very enticing, especially relying on the engine for hours on end.
Wednesday August 12
We had the sails raised shortly after 8:00 with 7-8 knots of wind, beam reach doing just under 6 knots, until wind died nearing Cressy Point. We motored past the entrance to Prinyer Harbour and raised the sails again.
We’re happy with the tacking to make our way down the Adolphus Reach, believing we have all day to arrive at our destination for the night. But again, the wind is not in our favour so we motor sail past the Glenora Ferry Terminals and Lake on the Mountain, rounding to the North Reach with 15 knots on our beam. Eventually, with the wind shift, we are running wing-on-wing at over 6 knots.
We agree to change the plan and not to anchor off Deseronto after seeing the area - deserted marina not assuring and the new marina is too shallow for us to anchor. So, the decision is made to carry on to Meyer’s Pier at Belleville - maybe even take-out from the grill.
After negotiating through the first bridge (still under construction and the way not very clear when 1/2 of the span lit for ship traffic is blocked by a construction barge), I work our way through all the markers and Big Bay. Harald takes the helm and I settle in for a short nap.
Within 30 minutes the engine idles, I wake to find we are broadside to an anchorage on the south side of the channel. It is not noted as an anchorage on the chart, but the 15 boats, nestled comfortably is all we need to know this is where we will stop. (Note south of red marker Q62 off Massassauga Point, just east of Belleville.)
Later realized we had just passed Jayne & Mike’s favourite stop at Muscote Bay.
10 hours and 46 miles today, but tomorrow will be very short with only the second bridge and western end of Bay of Quinte before navigating the Murray Canal and stopping in Presqu’ile Bay for the night. (We should get used to these hours and mileages….they will be the norm for much of next year’s journey.)
Sadly counting down the nights until cruise ends.
Thursday August 13
After a very restful, quiet night, we rose to yet another very warm, sunny day. Pancakes & sausage in the cockpit, with many boats already departed. Interesting to see sailboats with their masts down and on frames on their cabin tops; heading to or from the Trent-Severn.
By noon we are out of the anchorage and heading west, through the two Belleville bridges and attempting some sailing past the many beautiful homes and properties on the Bay of Quinte. Cheese and crackers for lunch. Trenton Air Base continues their practice flights. Constantly overhead and low. Don’t know how the residents get accustomed to this.
After an easy, but speedy transit through the Murray Canal (completed just prior to closing which would have left us on a wall in the canal for the night), we anchor off Stoney Point in Presqu’ile Bay, enjoy short, refreshing swims and a late dinner of grilled salmon as the sun sets. The days are getting shorter so we can still do some star-gazing before an early retreat to bed.
Friday August 14
Slow start to another warm day.
Noon departure. 11-12 knots SE wind as we round Presqu’ile Point. Osprey nested on top of the light at Presqu’ile Point.
Too much back wind so issues while trying to open the foresail; have to head into Presqui’le Park beach area to unwrap. But after we are settled, we see 7.2 knots speed, but average about 6 knots, sailing 20 of the 25 mile trip.
Arriving at Cobourg Basin a little after 5:00, we find 7 boats in place, but none near our waypoint for where we anchored in July. Heading there we quickly find out why - water level is down and we touch bottom. Silver Fox calls us on the radio declaring he has 80’ of chain out. After a bit of “dancing”, we drop the anchor between the boat launch and the western wall, which is also full.
Supper of chicken sausage, fried potatoes and canned peas and corn (supplies are low!), after a dinghy visit from Beate from Imagine. She called out to us when they first arrived, also having trouble finding a place to stop, “nice to see you!”. (Oceanis 351, Beate & John)
Saturday August 15
The wind has indeed shifted during the night to NE and we are now rolling a bit. Coffee in the cockpit (with Bailey’s - cream has gone sour) as we watch Imagine prepare to depart for Newcastle. We are particularly interested in their soft-bottom, roll-up dinghy which they store in their cockpit locker.
Only one boat remains when we pass through the entrance at 10:40am, heading west on the very last leg of our journey.
Again, the wind is behind us, but we settle in expecting to sail to Whitby. With 8 knots of wind we manage good speed, sailing 27 of the 33 miles, arriving in Whitby at 5:15pm. The pier is filled with Sunday visitors and fishermen, welcoming us “home”.
Not quite the sail plan we had initially set, including wintering in Morrisburg. We will haul out and winter over at Wiggers in Bowmanville, with the plan to head east Summer of 2021.
Stay tuned…..
Sails removed as preparations for haul out and winter storage at Wiggers Custom Yachts in Port Darlington begin.