Onward North and East

We sleep well and find the wind has shifted, boat has turned 180’ when we wake with the early dawn. It isn’t sunny and about 14’C. Again this morning we are not in any rush. Today’s destination is Moreton’s Harbour, just 15 nautical miles north, so no more than a three hour journey.

The dinghy is still in the water so after breakfast of scrambled eggs I head out for a row around the anchorage. I go toward the entrance to check the sea state in the open water to the west. It is flat calm, the same as where I am. Hmmm, might be another motoring day - disappointing but also some relief as we still do not have our sea legs.

Knight’s Island Western Harbour

”I spy something yellow” sitting onshore in the small cove to the east. Paddling over I find it is as I suspected - a yellow net weight ball! Going to shore I find it is in perfect condition - a great addition to the other two displayed in our garden at home.  Best kind of souvenir.

There appears to be lobster traps around the shoreline but with markers we have not seen before. They are low and flat and quite undistinguishable, I would think, if sitting in any rough water.  Best keep an eye out for these in coming days.

A new bird sound fills the air - new to me, anyway. There are a few calling back and forth across the basin. It sounds like they are singing “aujourd’hui”. We will call them the “Today Birds“ until we are able to find their true identity.

Back to the boat I find Harald has been working on a mysterious head smell that has practically driven me from the cabin when the toilet has been flushed. Ann was able to pick up fresh charcoal for us at the pet store in Grand Falls-Windsor but for some reason our Big Orange Filter isn’t doing its job. We will pump out when we reach the open water, hoping that will do the trick.  An air lock can do nasty things!

Harald raises and secures the dinghy while I ready the boat, prepare a small travelling snack, turn on the VHF radio and Inreach (emergency messaging device), and set our course on the chart plotter.  We don our full coastal gear, with tuques and gloves at the ready.

By 11:40 we have cleared the anchorage and turn north. It is still “flat arse calm” with less than 3 knots of wind, again on our nose.  We make the short turn east between South Samson Island and Yellow Fox Island and then turn north again. The autohelm steers through the open shipping channel until we arrive at the Gull Islands.  I take us through the small tickle and then east until we find the entrance to Moreton’s Harbour on New World Island.

Moreton’s Harbour

It is a narrow and shallow channel, but also very protected.  We spot more of those small, flat net markers.  The village lays ahead, most notable by the unassuming white church, saltbox houses and small fishing stages. There are some modern homes that may be renovated old homesteads. Some we realize are summer rental properties. The recorded population here in 2021 was 28.

All you really need is a good window to the world.

Moreton’s Harbour is the first of the three communities we will visit, immortalized in the traditional Newfoundland folk tune “I'se the B’y”, along with Twillingate and Fogo. This one, though, is the least known. It is very quiet with no indications of tourism.

The community was settled in 1810, providing easy access to the large stands of timber that covered New World Island, but it was also very close to the fishing grounds. It became a service centre for the fishing boats heading to and from Labrador.

Mining was carried out in the area after caches of arsenic and antimony were discovered. These were ill-fated and no mine was fully developed.

During my research I found a CBC article from 2022 where the history of the mining came back to current day as one woman told her story of drinking contaminated well water, in Moreton’s Harbour, for 15 years before it was discovered. This is not atypical in communities where the scars and tailing ponds have been left behind.

At 2:15 we are anchored with lots of swing room in the southeast cove.  The local road is near by but certainly not busy.  Dick and Moira landed at the wharf in Cross Cove, on the west side of this harbour but we are uncertain of her reported depth of 15’.  Our charts show as little as 6’.   

Joyful Noise reported good holding and seclusion so we will go with that.   We put up the enclosure with the plan to stay two nights so we can go to shore for a walk.

Pork chops and salad for supper, followed by a game of “Phase 10” in the cockpit. Boat life is all becoming familiar again.  We are treated to a lovely sunset and a very quiet night.

(Mark is now in St. Anthony - an 83nm day! He is on a mission.)

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