Cap Whittle

Everything we read about this major turning point had our nerves on edge as we approached from the west.  We are now in open Gulf of St. Lawrence to starboard with rocky shores and shoals to port. 

Our St. Lawrence River and Gulf weather guide suggests easterly as the prevailing winds, that if blowing over 20 knots to expect “steep waves created by channeling and funnelling effects, between I’le du Lac and Cap Whittle lighthouse”. 

During our trip planning at home, Cap Whittle was often mentioned as “the scary place” we must pass to move further up La Basse Cote Nord. (The Lower North Shore). Perhaps sometimes too much talk is not a good thing.

It is a lovely, sunny day and we have motor-sailed most of the 12 miles from our foggy stay in Coacoachou but we lower the sails now as we cruise past the rounded granite cliffs of the cape, taking photos and videos to record this milestone. 

There are seabirds present but not to the extent we have read about with the rocks described as being white-topped from the number of birds nesting in the area.  We have been in many bird sanctuaries, outlined by the “little pink ducks” on the chart plotter.  In this place we are near the sanctuary at the St. Marie Islands. 

Our stop for the night is a small protected bay on Ouapitagone Island, just 5 miles from the Cape.  Author Charles Townsend calls the Island by it’s English name, Wapitagun: of “Indian origin and means cormorant, an entirely appropriate name for this region”.

There is a small fishing cabin on shore, with no sign of any inhabitants, and the night is still with only the occasional sound of a boat passing somewhere nearby.  I finish preparing the beef stew and we dine in the dark with only the rising moon and mosquitoes for company. 

Cap Whittle