And We’re Back!
We are leaving Fortune Harbour on August 3rd under a blue sky with scattered fluffy clouds. There is enough wind for us to run with the foresail and a bit of engine to make our way northwest to Little Bay Island. The cloud has completely disappeared as we work our way through the Long Island Tickle. The Long Island-Pilley’s Island ferry, Hazel McIsaac, is still loading vehicles on Long Island so we pass by without need for any detour or evasive action. The tickle is only half of a kilometre wide from dock to dock and the ferry’s crossing has never been slow.
After turning north along the west side of Long Island, I spot another sailboat coming west from the Burnt Islands. It appears to be heading for Northern Harbour but I cannot be sure. I do not want to appear trying to outrun them, but then their boat seems to have stopped. Their sails are down so we hope they aren’t having engine problems. A small power boat approaches them and then leaves, so we can only assume all is well.
By 3:00pm I have steered us south of Black Rock Sunker, with Mack’s Island on our port side. The green marker appears and we already feel welcome in this very familiar place. I have some difficulty selecting an anchoring spot, even though our other visits are still noted on the chart plotter. A speed boat towing a tube carrying three kids is speeding around us, with what seems to be no concern for what we are trying to accomplish or for their own safety. I ask Harald to make some signal to them so they are aware we are attempting to anchor. Now we are not feeling so welcome.
It isn’t long though when friends Jackie and Rob appear beside us. They were the power boat going to offer assistance to the sailboat - the sailors were fishing! Jackie and Rob have a son and two daughters-in-law and three grandchildren onboard with them. They were in Northern Harbour gathering mussels - “just come by whenever you want! Can’t wait to catch up!”. We are very happy to see them too and look forward to visiting them in their cabin, meeting their family and sharing supper.
The evening is very warm so we do not have to pack any jackets for our shore visit - just a bean salad to share and some beverages. I feel the need to explain I do not have a contagious eye infection, but believe I got a bug or a bite under my eyelid a week ago while walking in Change Islands. It is pink, swollen and not nice to look at.
While Rob starts the batter for the cod the rest of us walk across the road to the new “Friendship Centre”. This used to be the United Church but has not operated fully as a church since resettlement of this community in December 2019. The building was purchased by Mike and Georgina Parsons, from another local cottage owner who had no plans for it.
Mike K donated the wood for a new deck constructed by other community members. It is lovely, holding a new patio table, umbrella and chairs. The sanctuary itself houses all that was there when the structure held weekly worship - a small organ, hymn books and an open bible still sits on the pulpit. Now, though, the walls are filled with Mike Parson’s art and some quilts. There are tables set up with hand knit gnomes, socks and mittens, handmade candles with sea glass in old cups and saucers and some used books. Buyers are entrusted with the honour system by depositing their small funds into the appropriate sealed cookie tins.
Back at the cabin, we sit on the deck while Rob steams the mussels on the barbecue - the whole five gallon pail of them. Everyone digs in and the two eldest grandchildren remove the mussels from the shells of the remaining few - to be eaten later or pickled and taken home.
The eleven of us then move inside, finding space at the kitchen table. Rob appears with platters of battered cod, Dom fried potatoes and my bean salad is poured into a bowl. What a lovely feast. Conversation is scattered between chews. We pass on dessert, say our thanks and “see you tomorrow”, so we can return to the boat before dark.