Welcome to Newport
Our neighbours on Sea Barrel depart at 8:00am with the plan to cross the bay to the harbour at Bonavista, 44 nautical miles. The day looks pleasant for their sail. We take our time as we only have 10 miles to travel to our next destination. Harald tightens the water pump belt and raises the dinghy.
By 11:00 we are heading back out to the open bay, after taking thirty minutes to raise the anchor. There was some struggle after the chain popped off the windlass. (We will need to meet with the machinist when we return to Lewisporte) The passage through the narrows is easy, following our previous track. It is low tide so the rocks are quite visible! It is a dilemma for debate - is deeper water better or best to see where the rocks actually are. We now have a better view of Valleyfield.
The wind is light, coming from the southwest - again - the predominant wind here.
I have been looking forward to seeing Greenspond, after hearing how lovely it is, but we will not be docking there now. First we pass Puffin Island and its lighthouse, which was originally constructed of granite and looked very much like the light at Rose Blanche.
Greenspond was initially an island community that spread right across Greenspond Island, Batterton Island and the Ship Islands. In 1983 a 600 metre long causeway was built to connect Greenspond with the mainland. This eliminated the need for a ferry. Greenspond is one of the oldest continuously inhabited outports in Newfoundland, having been settled in the 1690s by fishermen from Bonavista, coming for the plentiful cod in the area. The main harbour has a dangerous entrance and can only accommodate a few vessels at a time. It thrived though and became a major trading centre, eventually becoming known as “The Capital of the North” for nearly two centuries. Not only cod, but also pickled salmon, dried capelin, furs and berries were sent to Great Britain, Portugal, Spain and Italy. On their return voyages these vessels delivered salt, dry goods and wine.
We are almost to our anchorage at Newport when the first whales we have seen this summer appear beside us. They are too fast for me to grab the camera, but the show is delightful. An adult and calf, minke we believe, leave us after a leisurely tail wave.
The anchor is down and we are settled in the shelter of Newport Harbour by 1:00. There are about nine cabins and stages along the shore. Some appear to be brand new, others perhaps no longer visited even on weekends. One includes outdoor plumbing that most likely worked best at high tide. This community was initially settled in 1835 and was home to 156 people.
There is one camp, more substantial than the others, consisting of two cabins and several outbuildings. The paint colour tells us they all belong to the same family. There is nobody here. We see no signs of power and there is no cellular coverage. We will not be connecting with people at home and will not know where Randy or Mark have settled.
The sky turns heavy; rain is expected. We have naps in the cockpit - not tired - just relaxed. Then we work on some chart and harbour research. Harald greases the steering chain and replaces the light over the chart table with a red and white LED.
Rain begins at 4:00 but only a light ten minute shower. It comes heavier when I am preparing our supper - easy tonight - macaroni and cheese (yes, from a box) and wieners - camp food.
Four people arrive in the early evening and head to the camp on the north shore. Shortly after the two men leave, we expect to start their fishing weekend. They can only fish Saturday to Monday and are only allowed five fish each day, per person or fifteen per boat.
By 7:30 the rain has stopped and the basin is totally flat calm. The sun is showing between purple clouds. We open the windows in the cockpit and are hit by the aromatic air - wet earth, moss and spruce - no fish smell here and the water is clean. Delightful after days at wharfs near fish plants.
The evening is spent listening to music, reading and hearing the faint sound of voices in the distance. We are very comfortable in our current home.
Sunday is definitely a “cottage day”. Cloudy and drizzly. Blueberry pancakes is the order of the day. We have our breakfast in the cockpit, listening to bird song and water dripping somewhere. Our windows are now sealed and we are grateful we do not have plastic bags and buckets throughout the cabin.
I find CBC radio and get the news and some music - thank you Carolyn for providing the list of stations through Newfoundland and Labrador. The local news includes stories of the many delays with the new ferry expected to start running from Argentia to North Sydney NS a month ago. There are also issues with the ferries running to Fogo. People are warned to expect up to nine hours wait time.
The rain slows so Harald is able to get out to finish some necessary jobs on the mainsail. Our new smallest batten is now secure and new sail ties have been made and wrapped around the sail.
Salmon for supper has just thawed when the two gentlemen from the camp come by with two fresh cod, just caught, filleted and ready for the pan. The salmon can wait until tomorrow! Receiving fish has become an expected norm; we have been spoiled in the past. As the food fishery has just been open for two weekends, we really didn’t expect any yet. We are thrilled.
They ask us the usual first question: “where are you from?” When we tell them “Kitchener” they tell us “that’s where Home Hardware has its headquarters.” Correct - just twenty minutes from our home. They are retired dealers from the nearby Hare Bay.
I set about preparing the cod by cooking potato slices and then baking them with some onion and olive oil. The cod is the next layer with a secret blend of spices, followed by sliced zucchini and fresh tomatoes. All baked in the oven - delicious and so fresh!
We are lounging after dinner, listening to the birds and the odd gurgle of water under the boat, when our neighbours return, asking if we are okay and have everything we need. Also to show off their evening catch of two 30lb cod. The ladies are with them now so I assume that is their quota.
