The Limestone City
We arrived in Kingston yesterday about 4:00 in a very gusty 20 knot wind from the south. This meant an awesome sail from Stella Bay, jib only and seeing 6+ knots. Welcome to the sailing capital of the world!
The fog kept us in Cobourg longer than we had planned but we finally departed early Sunday after pancakes and sausage breakfast. Happy Father’s Day! We motored the 22 miles to Presqu’ile Bay, in zero wind, arriving at 12:30.
A dozen boats pass by heading to the west end of the Murray Canal. The local cottagers don’t seem very welcoming, running their ski boats and jet skis at top speed too close for comfort. That is, until we met “Andy The Sailor”. Andy came along side for a chat from his dinghy. He is rebuilding an older North Wind but has sailed all over the world. His plan is to sail to Halifax once the boat is ready. We shared what we could from our planning and he was very appreciative.
We make the plan to leave at dawn to avoid some forecasted thunderstorms, knowing we will be in rain and good wind.
The following morning we rise at 4:45 and quickly prepare hot tea and oatmeal to eat underway. The rain is pelting into the starboard side of the cockpit, us in full foul weather gear, toques and rain boots.
Passing between Nicholson Island and Scotch Bonnet, the rain starts to let up. (we can barely make out the lighthouse on Scotch Bonnet, thinking of Farley Mowat).
By 9:00am the sun is out and we have full sails running in 25 knot wind. Two ships pass us within 1.5 miles as we near False Ducks Islands. (Algonova and Vicky Spirit? AIS does not provide their full names and they are not listed in our ship guide) We know this will be just the first of many.
Our night in Halfmoon Bay at Little Bluff is uneventful as we are very tired after our 48 mile journey. Happy to report we sailed half of it. Bed at 7:00pm after a dinner of hot dogs and baked beans! Glad we solved the “thumping” problem - centreboard not raised all the way.
The next morning we enjoyed the short trip to shore for a nice walk through the Conservation Area with lovely views of the basin and Seabiscuit. A little mink is spotted running from her den to the shore to “fish”. We walked the kinks out after 4 days aboard.
In no rush, we depart under heavy skies at 1:30pm and head to a favourite little anchorage on Amherst Island. We motored all the way, with no wind to help us, and found we were alone in Stella Bay with only a couple of the cottages inhabited.
Matthew helps with some battery issues and we have a nice update from Ethan. I switch the bedsheets to flannel (going to go to 7’C tonight plus we absorbed some water on our rough day on Sunday - have to check the anchor locker for any possible intake areas)
News from Andy on Sailfish - they are still in Gananoque waiting for a head gasket. We might catch up with them after all! So far we just follow them on YouTube and have the occasional online chat. Would be fun to meet him and Jodie and the boys.
I am successful in securing a slip at Confederation Basin for June 23, but hear they have a wait list of 20 transient boats waiting on various days. Only 50% of slips available under Covid restrictions. Certainly looking forward to our visit to Kingston.
As we enjoy our BBQd chicken and veg, the only sounds are the chickens and cows at the nearby farm. A very quiet, still night. Best sleep!
Wednesday June 23
The rooster crows at 6:15 but I manage another 2 hours of sleep before rising to make bacon and eggs, and to turn on the furnace. Chilly but a gorgeous, sunny day in Stella.
Sitting on the bow, I take a few minutes to collect my thoughts, looking east toward Kingston. We know tomorrow we will enter the western end of the St. Lawrence River; many challenges await - freighters, current, tide and the Seaway locks. One day at a time. We have already faced many challenges and have passed through each as we work together. Funny how our priorities have already changed. What used to be important while cruising Georgian Bay, is now closer to the bottom of the priority list - a clean cockpit, a neat cabin, hot showers! Now we focus on weather, navigation and being safe. These things of course were also important before, but we are in new territory now….everything feels different.
Portsmouth Marina (surrounded by empty penitentiaries) is where we have to go for services, so we sail there under the jib only, again in 20+ knot winds. There are many kite boarders in the area where we have to navigate into the very narrow entry channel. Harald maneuvers us to the very windy dock (like a pro for our first docking this year!) and the staff help with pump out and diesel fill up. Staff are “new” as the marinas have just been opened a few weeks. There is much learning and we are left with some diesel to clean up. The Penelope Jayne from Lion’s Head is laying at a slip. We are certain she was in Wiarton prior to her owner passing unexpectedly.
After the short run to Confederation Basin under power, with the Wolfe Island Ferry passing ahead of us, we settle in to our slip - the second slip from the entry and a very long, zigzagging walk to shore. The scene is lovely - Fort Henry and Royal Military College and blooming parks around us.
Kingston is sunny and warm as we walk the 4.5km to Canadian Tire for a much needed fuse. (In Newfoundland we expect we would have been offered a ride by at least one of the people we asked about hardware stores.) The fill-up at Mio Gelato gave us the energy for the walk, but we called a cab for the return trip.
The very friendly cabbie told us how Kingston has faired so well during Covid, with only 10 cases currently. There are many tourists in the city so let’s hope they can maintain their success. The patios are open and flowers are blooming - just how I remember it on my many work visits here.
After a short grocery and LCBO stop, we have a lovely dinner on the patio at Dianne’s Fish and Smokehouse. Nice to have the shore power so we run the little electric heater and charge everything!
It’s June 24th now and we must leave by 1:00. I arranged an extended departure in lieu of very poor wifi at our “remote” slip. Still don’t understand why a marina needs 4 hours between check out and check in. No sheets to change (sailing joke).
It was quite windy overnight but we slept well and enjoyed the real showers and the walk to the outdoor market at city hall and of course, a stop at Pan Chancho for fresh, baked goodies.
The proud new owners of Cassandra Jade, a Hampton 650, come by to ask us the depth in our slip as they are awaiting her delivery this morning. We share in their excitement as we remember the day we had Seabiscuit trucked from Wiarton. Not quite a 65 foot cruiser coming from Fort Lauderdale but we are happy for them. We agree to watch for each other in Montreal. Their home is Val d’Or, Quebec but expect the boat to stay in Montréal.
Our plan today is to head to Leek Island in the 1000 Islands, transiting the Canadian Middle Channel with the hope to sail, rather than the narrow, but scenic Bateau Channel. There we will stay for two nights and take in the forecasted heat - maybe even have our first swims.
Biscuit thoroughly enjoyed his first tour of Kingston.
