Saddle Island
As I mentioned earlier, our admission to the Parks Canada Interpretive Centre includes passage to Saddle Island, just across the harbour. This is where the original lighthouse from 1907 was located. Charles Leonard Yetman was the first light keeper and lived in the tiny lighthouse with his family during the summer months. Two more generations of Yetmans have also tended the light before it was replaced with the skeleton tower that stands today, guiding boats through the “West’ard Tickle”.
Thunderstorms (very rare here) and then thick fog are keeping us in this friendly place for at least another day. Harald checks the fuel and water levels; tops up the fuel but we don’t have access to more fresh water until Mary’s Harbour. Cautious use continues. Boil water advisory here.
Chatting with Ricky from the whale watching boat, he tells him about the strong wind pushing us on the dock overnight and explains that Bobby at the Parks Canada office granted us permission to use one of his large fenders he didn’t appear to need. Now we own a very large fender to replace the one we left tied to the wharf at Port Saunders. (Ambrose later told us he has it in safe keeping, committing us to a visit next summer)
Chores done, Sunday afternoon seems the perfect time to head across to Saddle Island. Needing to find some better internet connection, we walk up to the Whaler’s Restaurant for lunch of delicious fish soup, bannock and Iceberg Beer (Harald opted for chicken wings which he said were very good). I successfully update our blog before our 2:00 trip to the island. Bobby captains the small craft carrying us, a young lady from Montreal and her large dog and a family of 5 from Port Hope Simpson.
Bobby was born in Henley Harbour, but when he was 14 his parents accepted the government’s offer of $1800 to resettle after the cod moratorium. He further explained that they kept their summer home and returned for summers of fishing. They did not return to their winter home and expects we will see it when we are there, although, 40 years later, there won’t be much left. After fishing at Red Bay for several decades, he now spends his days shuttling guests back and forth every hour from 9:00 to 4:00.
I should also mention that Bob suggested we watch some YouTube videos showing Henley Harbour today. I mentioned Ed O’Reilly and he agreed, “that’s the guy!” Ed, you have a big fan here in Red Bay who is grateful for your very truthful commentary and kind portrait of his childhood home.
It is warm and sunny as we walk along the shore trail: wildflowers, a sandpiper and an excellent “other” view of Red Bay village. Just passing by the wreck of the Bernier, I spot a minke whale very close in the cove. He is shy, unlike the “show off” humpbacks, and just glides along the surface, slowly diving and reappearing a few more times so eventually we all see him.
As we round the cove, the wind is strong and the gulls noisy as we walk past their nesting ground. Young gull chicks can be seen walking on the rocks, close to mom.
We pass by the burial ground where the Basque whaler clothing was found from over 500 years ago, with its remnants now on display in the Interpretive Centre.
We are due to cross back to shore at 3:00, so without time to walk up to the light keeper’s house, we find Chris, the costumed Basque Whaler, and Puff and Biscuit enjoy the photo op.
Back at the boat I lose at Skipbo and prepare beef stew for dinner. We heard it was 40’C in St. John’s today, but we still keep warm in fleece jackets and run the furnace before bed. Jim and Janice are in 30’C in Englee and joke that the large ice berg they saw today could be melted by the time we pass by in a few weeks.
With the dinghy now attached, we are all ready for a morning departure.
