Lingering In LBI
So this brings us to July 14 and you are all caught up! But I am writing this on July 18, with internet connection in La Scie. (Confusing? Frustrating, too.)
The day starts cloudy and with no wind. Pancakes for breakfast in the cockpit, while we watch the local summer residents of Little Bay Islands going out to retrieve their lobster traps, as the season has now finished for catching lobster. Most of the boaters are aware of our presence and slow down as they pass by, but a few do not. (There was no wake in God’s Pocket!)
There are still at least three vehicles on the island, one badly in need of a muffler. It is purple so we dub him “Barney”. We recognize people, from our last visit, driving their ATVs, towing trailers with building supplies from nearby Robert’s Arm or just moving from one side of the harbour to the other. Everything has to come by boat so no easy process for anyone wanting to renovate their cabin.
First order of business is sorting two week’s laundry as the hamper in the head can’t hold anymore. Then I vacuum the floor and cushions in the cabin while Harald launches the dinghy and looks after moving the garbage out of the aft cabin.
The rain starts about noon and doesn’t stop until bedtime. We nap, play cards and plan on getting to shore tomorrow to visit the lookout and to find the “wifi chairs” overlooking the south shore.
The pork has thawed so Harald makes schnitzel for supper - yummy with fried potatoes!
We can tell it’s going to be another warm day as soon as we head into the cockpit for breakfast. But the rain has stopped so after preparing dough to rise and leaving it under the dodger, we head to shore at noon.
The little beach area near the abandoned school looks like a good spot to land. It is also quite near Goldie and Shelby Parsons’ home. We met Mike’s parents last August when we were here. She was happy to sell Mike’s book to us - “For William”.
We chat about the amount of fog and ice this year and Goldie tells me only about half of the summer residents have returned so far. Harald asks Selby about fishing for cod and the response turns into an invitation to join him and Mike tomorrow morning. Cod can only be caught for personal consumption Saturday to Monday from July to September. Each person is allowed 5 fish per day, with a maximum of 15 per boat. Harald has a new fishing rod he is anxious to try!
Our first attempt to find the cell service past the cemetery is not successful so we head back down the hill and run into Jules and his wife. He asks if we’re “the folks from the sailboat. Everyone knows you’re here and that you were here last year.”
We know Jules was in Lewisporte while we were working on our preparations. He has a trawler, Solo, which he keeps there until he takes it to his summer home at LBI. He also used to own the Bob’s Catalina, SlipNAway. So many stories come full circle, the more people we meet.
He tells us the story of Woodpecker - his 1964 Traditional Newfoundland Skiff - with the Lister engine. I had seen him out in it yesterday and immediately recognized the putt-putt sound of the “make or break engine”, as seen on “Land and Sea”. I’ll have to research the two engine names and type. I am very pleased with myself.
It is extremely hot standing in the sun, so we say our good-byes and get the exact directions on where to find the two chairs, sitting atop a hill - the Little Bay Islands Internet Cafe. This time we are successful in finding the spot, but can only get a marine forecast and one text message from family. We enjoy a snack and the view and head back down the hill.
Back at the boat, I make the naan bread, which has already started to bake while rising. We were gone too long for unattended dough on a very warm day.
Harald manages a swim in the 17’C water and is drying off on the foredeck when Jules comes by inviting us to use his internet in the evenings when he runs his generator.
It’s about this time that I spot 1000s of little jellyfish swimming around the boat. An amazing spectacle especially when I only see two or three large ones and all these others about the size of a quarter. I expect these must have just hatched.
I make pizza with the naan but it is almost too warm to eat. This weather is not what we were expecting or planned for. If only I had brought a second set of cotton sheets!
Harald is picked up at 6:15 the next morning to go fishing. I’m just making coffee when he returns at 8:15 with his share of the 15 cod - all cleaned and bagged. He enjoyed the time with the two gentleman and we are both looking forward to fresh cod for supper.
Our day has started early, and we know it will get warm as the day progresses, so at 10:30 we dinghy to the fish plant wharf and begin our hike toward Northern Harbour. Four cemeteries, dozens of black flies, thistles in the path and the eventual arrival at a lovely pond - but we don’t find the Northern Harbour. Apparently we should have kept walking around the pond. Maybe next time.
Heading back down the hill, past the old post office, we run into Michael from Ontario. He is working on his granddaughter’s house. Harald mentions the problem we are having with our VHF and he suggests we knock at the house next door and ask for Rob.
Rob is a radio operator for the Coast Guard out of Goose Bay - this is the location that services from Notre Dame Bay, all the way to Greenland. His wife, Jackie, works in administration for the Coast Guard. He gives us some suggestions and then invites us in for tea.
We can’t believe we sat at their kitchen table for over two hours, chatting about everything from our journey so far, books we have read, how to prepare cod, Coast Guard rescues and our beloved grandchildren. They are only at the cabin until Wednesday when Rob will return to Goose Bay to work. We have a date to call him on Saturday after 8:30, just to let him know we are doing ok.
The sweet treats and beverages were no replacement for their lunch, so it’s time for us to leave so they can get on with their day. It was a lovely, pleasant visit and we depart with invitations to come by to use the wifi and the shower if we’d like.
Harald swims again and I prepare the cod for supper which we eat, for the first time in many days, in the cabin. The cockpit is far too warm even at 7:00pm.
After dishes, while finishing our wine on the foredeck, Rob and Jackie come by in their boat. They had been fishing but didn’t get a bite. We all agree to hook up again on our way back to Lewisporte in the fall.
This has been such a memorable time in LBI. Not going to Labrador gives us the time to linger and to wallow in the beauty here, spending time with the people we meet.
We remove the enclosure before the bugs start and head inside to do the dishes. I make sandwiches for our travel day tomorrow. We sleep with all ports and hatches open - on top of the covers.