Fleur de Lys
Seems I mistook some information from a fisherman in Englee. The cod fishery did not close for the season, but a three week hiatus was put in place for the commercial fishermen. The “food” fishery, which refers to the non-commercial fishing operation, operates for individuals on weekends from July through September. Each recreational fisherman is allowed 5 fish per day, 15 total per boat. We have been the happy recipients of several meals from these very generous fishers.
The sky is heavy but we are excited to be sailing across White Bay to our destination 20 miles further east - on a beam reach, 15-20 knots of wind beside the boat.
The main sail is reefed (using only 2/3 of its full capacity) and we only unfurl half of the foresail. The Northern Peninsula fades quickly behind us as we fly along up to 7 knots. It rains off and on making for poor visibility but we soon see the shoreline of the Baie Verte Peninsula.
The Fleur de Lys entrance is well hidden but we trust the chart plotter, dropping the sails in the bay where we spot some small boats fishing in the bouncing sea. The entrance is very narrow but well marked. We pass by the two islands on port side which are now marked by green buoys. The public wharf is straight ahead with only two fishing boats along side. There is plenty of room for us and electrical boxes are available. The docking is easy.
We had read that the “local domestic architecture is unlike anything else in Newfoundland” (CCA) and as soon as we climb to the wharf we see this is very true. There are the usual salt box houses but also A-frames, bungalows with dormers and a two-story Tudor style home.
About 200 people live here in this snug harbour on the north east side of the Baie Verte Peninsula. It’s roots date back 4500 years with the Maritime Archaic Indians, followed by the Grosswater Paleo-Eskimo and then the Middle Dorset about 2000 years ago. Incomprehensible history! The Dorset used the soft soapstone found in the community to manufacture cooking pots, bowls and small oil lamps. The large soapstone quarry was awarded National Historic Site status in 1996.
The name Fleur-de-Lys is a French derived name, which was given to the area by seasonal French fishermen. A rock formation 820 feet high which has three hummocks is said to have resembled the French Fleur-de-Lys, its national symbol and reminder of their homeland.
The economy of Fleur-de-Lys was based on mining, fishing, and lumbering. The mines were a good source of employment until they closed in 1992. Laid off miners needed new sources of work and many moved away. When the Cod Moratorium was set in 1992 the population of Fleur-de-Lys declined. (From the ExploreNewfoundlandandLabardor website)
Within five minutes of our arrival, we have our first visitor. Don arrives on his ATV and fills us in on some details of the community, including the story of “Sam’s Place”, the bright purple and yellow oddly shaped building on the far shore. This is a cafe and memorial to a young girl who was murdered here about 20 years ago. The unique structure has four distinct corners representing the 4 main compass directions, significant to the seventeen-day search for Samantha. Some of the 15,000 messages received following this tragedy - cards, letters, poems and drawings - are on display along the walls.
He also tells us to be sure to visit “The Club” where apparently people come from all over the peninsula for their merriment.
We ask Don about the harbour master and how to gain access to the showers. He quickly makes a phone call to confirm she is away but he will do what he can to obtain the key for us.
After our usual arrival procedures, we head out on foot at 5:00 to find the grocery store has closed for two hours. We really don’t need anything so we continue on our walk up and down the hills of this small community hugging the very sheltered bay.
Sam’s Place is also closed so we expect the Dorset Indian Soapstone Quarry and Museum will not be open again until the morning. We plan to stay for two nights so our agenda for tomorrow has already been set. Sam’s Place advertises free wifi so I anticipate some work on this blog as well.
On our way back to the boat we do find “The Club”, previously named “Skipper Shea’s Lounge”, and venture inside to see what people come miles to enjoy. The lounge is large and bright. There is a small stage set up for live music in the corner, a pool table, several dart boards along the end wall, historic photos on the others. The large dance floor is surrounded by small groupings of table and chairs.
Tonya, the new owner, greets us and is happy to tell us her story. Originally from the area, she moved back from Toronto a year ago with her retired husband and took over the establishment which, she agrees, is THE place to come to in Fleur de Lys. Last night was a tremendous time with live music, dancing and storytelling. Sounds like we are a day too late but promise each other we will visit again.
Back at the boat we have a light supper of two-bite tacos after two more people visit to tell us they cannot obtain the key for the showers. Oh well. Spit baths are the new norm as we continue to conserve our water.
