Jetsam & Flotsam
My mother used to refer to a hodgepodge of articles as being jetsam and flotsam. Clearly she wasn’t referring to the actual definition of various kinds of shipwrecks and their debris, and neither am I. But over the next few days we passed so many floating trees, branches and large pods of seaweed, it got me thinking about jetsam and flotsam.
Our next two days were also a hodgepodge of happenings.
We left Tadoussac basin at 8:00 am for two days anchoring at Moose Cove, Cap a l’Orignal, Parc National Du Bic.
The Golden Ruby slips past us just outside of the basin, passing the Prince Shoal Light.
It is cloudy and cool so I’m bundled in my coastal jacket and Bogs, tuque and gloves. We have kept the back portion of the enclosure for warmth.
Just after a grey seal swims close to the boat, we are in dense fog. I can’t see a mile ahead so we fire up the fog horn and the radar, concerned about the freighter I know I saw while we still could. There are ships, but there are also whales!
Leaning over to adjust the auto helm controls, just to the right of where I’m standing at the wheel, I looked up to see a minke whale diving under the boat about 10’ away. With the engine running I must have missed its blow - a distinct sound and clearly visible on the water. OK! That was close.
By lunch time we are sailing and the weather has cleared as we comfortably pass four anchored freighters. We wonder how they calculate their swing room?
The beautiful hills of Bic appear and we anchor with 8 other boats by 2:30.
I wondered about, but had not investigated, the name “Bic” but you may have seen sailor Dany’s comment in an earlier post: “In 1603 Champlain described the mountain as “Pic” (peaks) but the “P” was badly written as a “B”. It’s been named Bic ever since”. Love this little anecdote and know we are probably missing so many more.
It is the oddest sound we hear from the rocks that are now “growing” as the tide goes out. I can only describe the sound as dogs fighting with pigs. Binoculars help and we are amazed at the number of harbour seals basking on the rocks, basically yelling at each other! Some venture into the water and swim very close to the boat, but their little faces disappear as quickly as they appear.
We enclose the cockpit to help keep the heat in the cabin and are treated to a yellow sunset at 8:20. (The days start before 5:00 am but end early)
Our decision to stay a second night is only made as we prepared to depart the next morning. We think a “home day” is in order and the wind looks better tomorrow for our journey further east on the river’s south shore.
Harald installs the whisker pole. I clean and sort the aft cabin (again) and switch my summer clothes for warmer ones. We continue to be entertained by the curious seals as we go about our little chores.
We are becoming more accustomed to the gentle rolling of the boat as the tide changes. Harald wins at Skipbo and we are treated to an amazing sunset that lingers for an hour, finishing our second day on the south shore.
The following day it is warmer in the cockpit than in the cabin, so we breakfast outside. The floor is now often wet from condensation gathered in the warm cabin sitting on top of the cold water. (6’C is the coldest water temperature we have seen, with about 14’C in the Tadoussac area) The sun is warm in the cockpit but we dress again in boots and sweaters and gloves for our day.
It ends up being a good practice run with the whisker pole and preventer, as we only see 2 knots of wind. We end up motoring again and settle on the anchorage at Petit Métis with the hope to sail tomorrow to save fuel.
The gannets and loons visit as we travel and 2 harbour seals greet us at the entrance to Petit Métis, the very wide bay where we will spend the night with one other boat.
Early arrival gives us some time for small chores like filling the diesel tank and cleaning the fresh water strainer. We opened the floor boards to our cache of canned goods - we must be at the 1/2 way point.
Another lingering sunset…framing our neighbour boat…and another day of jetsam and flotsam is finished.
