Conche
Conche will be the fourth of a half dozen harbours we are planning to visit along the east side of the Northern Peninsula. These, along with several along the western and northern shores, are all part of the French Shore.
There is great history to explore as Conche was an important fishing base to the French and English for hundreds of years. Between 1792 and 1815 fewer French came to Conche, rather Irish and English Newfoundlanders came and formed the basis of the community as it is today. Many of these were hired as “guardians” of the French fishing stages and gear, protecting it from the English fisherman when the French returned to France for the winter. (We want to take this moment to recommend an amazing book we both just read: “Random Passage” by Bernice Morgan. Segments come to mind as we see and hear the history in this very similar place to the setting of her story.)
The area’s history is depicted on the French Shore Tapestry we are very much looking forward to seeing during our stay in Conche.
Conche and Crouse Harbours are formed in the narrows, north and south where the Conche Peninsula juts out south of Cape Rouge. The rock of Cape Rouge did appear quite red today as we passed by. The sun has come out and it appears that our arrival in Conche will be midday amidst blue sky and warmer temperatures than we have had to date.
The cliffs along the shore heading into the harbour are rather craggy and home to a large kittiwake colony.
About 175 people live here, only a dozen children.
There is a very busy fish plant between Silver and Stage Coves which was visited by a polar bear late this May, forcing the plant workers to leave early for the day. They process, cook and package crab here during the crab fishery. They also prepare and can lobster and at the end of the cod season, they prepare squid.
Conche is also where a Boston BZ-277 crashed in November 1942 when the Canadian RCAF pilot took off from Gander, NL but either ran out of fuel or lost control in icing conditions before crashing near the hillside school. The pilot and crew survived and, along with some local men, salvaged what they could from the wreckage. The rest remains today and has been designated a municipal heritage site.
So we arrive at the wharf anticipating a couple of days of great exploring!
The wharf is smaller than we expected and quite full so we tie up along the end, bow and stern both sticking out but we are secure and, we later learn, is where many pleasure boats tie in this harbour.
Harald speaks with some local gentlemen on the wharf who tell him there is no available water, no harbour master and no more restaurants. (We will have to update the Cruising Club of America when we get back home.) But there is the Ocean Mart with everything from potatoes to hardware, a small cafe in the back where we are welcomed to enjoy coffee and make use of the wifi and the very delightful store clerk, Daisy.
Daisy is happy to provide directions to the French Interpretation Centre so we head off for the very pleasant walk around the bay. We are greeted by every person we meet, whether on foot or sitting in their yards enjoying this exceptionally warm and sunny day.
The Interpretation Centre does not disappoint! Upon entry we walk through a small hallway filled with hooked mats, old and new. Many were hooked using burlap sacks and cloth strips cut from old clothes. These are now lovely art, but historically they were a necessary craft to be used on cold winter floors. Working together also became a time for women to gather socially
The artifacts room tells the story of the French Shore, including that of the cabin boys, or les mousses. These boys, some as young as 8 years old, were recruited as part of a government plan to prepare seamen for the French navy in the 16th and 17th centuries. On boats heading to Newfoundland, they cleaned decks, served food and performed any other tasks others did not want to do. Once here, their job was to dry the cod, backbreaking work and often standing knee deep in raw fish for days. (I think of our precious young grandsons. 😢)
The final room we visit holds the 227 foot tapestry, designed by Jean Claude Roy but embroidered by local women. It tells the intriguing story of the French Shore and its people. The work is absolutely stunning. It is behind glass and photos are not to be taken. It hangs in a suspended and jointed frame of wood as it winds through the rather small room. The following photo was taken off of the Newfoundland Labrador tourism website. The project took 12,000 hours to complete. The scissors and needles used by the stitchers are on display at the end of the tapestry, along with the ladies’ photos and short bios. It takes us nearly an hour to shuffle our way along the display, yet I believe it would take another hour at least to see all of the details.
The fog has rolled in as we leave the centre. We return to the wharf for barbecued burgers and our usual evening game of cards - a perfect end to our lovely first day, here in Conche.
