Toe-Tapping Salvage Harbour

After yet another quiet night, we raise the anchor and depart Saint Chads on the 11am high tide. The opening is not as intimidating with my chart plotter track to follow. Of course, we are immediately on the lookout for whales.

Harald unfurls the jib and we set our course for Salvage, just five and half nautical miles away. As I mentioned earlier, a harbour I have been thinking about for months, but also looking forward to visiting.

The narrow exit from Saint Chads

Once we round Bakers Loaf Island we are on a straight track east to round Cow Head and into Bishop’s Harbour. There are many boats and fishermen near the head. I am thankful for the calm day to negotiate the route into Salvage Harbour. The rocks are clearly visible just feet from the marked channel.

After a sharp 90’ turn from the green day marker, we are in the open harbour and finding our way to an empty spot on the floating dock. As I turn and head back to approach the dock, a fishing boat races in ahead of me. I’m not very comfortable with his speed, my distance and limited maneuverability. We both tie on, with mere feet to spare between our bow and his outboard.

Some words are shared and then he kindly explains most large cruise boats tie up at the main wharf, not the floating dock. “Most people call ahead and make the arrangements”. I told him we would have gladly called, as we usually do, but that the posted information is incorrect. He is on the Harbour Authority and promised to have the information corrected. Meanwhile, he has texted the harbour master who has confirmed we can stay behind the other visiting sailboat at the fishplant wharf. We thank him for the gift of fresh cod and laugh about our introduction to Salvage.

Our neighbours are three gentlemen from Glovertown Yacht Club, out on a ten day cruise and to do some fishing. We chat with them about our upcoming plans and they explain their “unwelcome” at Terra Nova National Park. There is no wharf for pleasure boats but they were granted permission to dock long enough for showers. (A long way down Newman Sound for a shower!)

We had also wanted to dock so we could spend more time in the park, see the visitor’s centre, visit “Chuck’s“ cafe and of course, grab showers. Anchoring is our favourite way to stop and do not mind using the dinghy so we’ll see what things are all about when we arrive. I will also phone ahead!

There is a small box, on the wharf, containing the registration book. I am thrilled to see Torngat was here just four days earlier. Ann messaged me to say they are also coming into Lewisporte before heading to Les Iles de la Madeleine. Sorry we missed you, Duncan and Renee, and the chance to catchup.

Local visitors come by and ask all the usual questions. One gentleman asks about our transit down the St. Lawrence Seaway and explains his niece and her husband are on their way from Toronto in their new 96’ power yacht. WOW! Kind of big for Newfoundland but that is where they are headed.

This man is from the Change Islands and asks if I know how the islands got their name. I proudly explain about the south island being heavily forested and the north being closer to the fishing grounds so people moved between the two islands with the seasons. (I’ve done my homework and we try to learn as much about the places we visit, as possible.)

The large red building on the wharf is where the fish plant used to stand. It burned down in 2001 and was reconstructed the following year, only to be shut down in 2013. The building was purchased by an Ottawa car dealer who has a summer home across the bay. He saw an opportunity and has refurbished the building to accommodate a microbrewery, restaurant and a few guest rooms. The boaters would also appreciate some washrooms. Perhaps “Salvaje Longhouse” will be ready for a future visit.

Our visitors have just come from the lunch hosted by the “Over 50s Club” in St. Stephen’s Hall.  For just $10 - fish and brewis, macaroni and cheese, cod au gratin, baked beans, pies and on and on. This meal is part of the accordion festival which we do know about.

We grab a quick snack, cameras and water bottles and head to where the action is - in the extreme heat - 32’C with the humidex. We are not moving fast.

Four fishing stages have been opened for the musicians. They are filled with ropes and crab traps and people. There is a slight hint of salt in the air but also of old wood. Some people are sitting on boards or chairs, but most are standing. Some dance. Some sing along. Everyone taps their toes.

After visiting the four venues we walk out to the point separating Bishop’s Harbour and Salvage Harbour. On our return I hear the most impressive accordion music coming from the stage we visited first. This young man is from Cobb’s Arm. He is incredible! His feet are tapping a little dance almost as fast as his fingers fly over the keys. I cannot get enough so we follow him when he leaves and moves to another stage. His music is magnificent and his dialect an art form of its own.

There are no amenities here. Just power. There are no stores or cafes. Rocky’s Ocean Breeze Restaurant has been closed. There is no wifi, unless you hike up to one of the many high ridges. We are aware, and have come prepared, to tackle some of the Damnable Hiking Trails. That’s for tomorrow when it is forecasted to be about 15’C cooler.

Back at the boat the heat brings on some late afternoon naps and a late, light supper. The mosquitoes are early so we head inside shortly after 7:00.