A Whale of a Tale and more good food
Picture a seaside village, wide sand beach, pastel and gem-toned buildings lining a main street where vacationers wander the boardwalk, some enjoy local beer and mouthwatering meals while others line up for ice cream or just sit and watch the world go by.
The waterfront is a buzz with people waiting to embark on whale-watching excursions, the comings and goings of the pleasure craft dock where we sit and the ferry tooting it’s horn before every arrival and departure.
This is certainly a busy summer destination on this lovely July afternoon, but we are feeling a good vibe as we join those walking the Bord de l’Eau, taking photos and considering all the options for our short stay.
The cold fresh water of the Saguenay River meets the warm salt water of the St. Lawrence at Tadoussac. This produces an abundance of krill, making the area very attractive to a very large whale population - and therefore a large population of whale watchers.
The tide is now ebbing and the beach is even wider as the sun begins to set.
The Poste de Traite Chauvin is now closed but we consider returning tomorrow to visit the earliest trading post in Canadian History (1599) and the cabin where Samuel de Champlain stayed on several visits to the area as early as 1608. Long before the arrival of Jacques Cartier, this was a very important meeting and trading place for the Europeans and First Nations People.
We wander through the grounds of the Grand Hotel, reminding me of the Grand Hotel at Mackinac Island, Michigan - not as large and as grand but exuding a feeling of nostalgia and welcome. It’s pool and tennis courts are now quiet but the many white “Muskoka” chairs are occupied by the guests and probably a few other passers by like us.
Intending on just seeing the interior, we make the quick decision to stay for dinner. We had heard many wonderful reports on the atmosphere, the food and the service - why not?
Pierre is a friendly, efficient waiter. He agrees with our wine choice to pair with Harald’s escargot and my Salade Cesar à Tadoussac, followed by Mediterranean Chicken and roasted pork with the absolutely best scalloped potatoes we have ever tasted. The vegetables were a superb compliment to the meal and the quiet atmosphere was exactly what we needed. Covid seems so very far away.
Following dinner, Pierre re-corked our Luigi Righetti and allowed us to carry it to the small lounge where we enjoyed some live French folk music - not Andy Lowe in Killarney but pretty close!
July 18 dawns with sunshine and warmth. A visit to the Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre is delayed only by a walk along the shore path with the other whale watching enthusiasts. We walk on part boardwalk and part flat granite and woods path. The view is spectacular even if we don’t see any whales.
The interpretation centre is one large, dark room with several skeletons of St. Lawrence whale species hanging from the ceiling. We are very impressed with the presentation of whale bones, actually reconstructed to their natural size and form - in awe at the size and the details included in the descriptions of each. The centre has also done a magnificent job at making the centre English-friendly.
After sitting in the mouth of a Northern Right Whale and listening to a symphony of whale sounds, we pick up a few gifts at the gift shop before stopping with Biscuit for a few photos with the belugas.
Time for lunch! Cafe le Gibard does not disappoint with their smoked salmon pizza and garden salad. I doubt there is a bad meal to be found in Tadoussac - competition is too tight.
We stop by the oldest wooden chapel in North America, built in 1747 before heading back to the boat and making our preparations for tomorrow’s departure and our journey up the Saguenay.
Tide is out at the Tadoussac beach