Welcome to the Rock
Harald finally enjoyed a solid 7 hours of sleep so he is ready for the crossing when we raise the anchor and depart St. Paul’s River at 6:00 am on Sunday morning.
Fortunately he pulled much of the anchor chain up the night before, but unfortunately by hand, as the windlass switches are behaving badly and we don’t want to run the risk of losing the motor that pulls up the anchor and all the heavy chain.
He raises the main sail as the direction is perfect into the wind as we head toward the entrance to the Champlain Passage. It is narrow but not difficult with the chart plotter and good visual in the morning light. The temperature is a cool 7’C but we are warmed by the excitement of this milestone crossing.
By 7:30 we are past the last red marker with a clear run to the west coast of Newfoundland. We set the auto helm and motor sail a beam reach with some napping and reading until we enter the down-bound shipping lane.
The 287 metre Squireship is approaching at 10 knots so we slow down and slightly alter our course so they know we see them. She is flying the Liberian flag and we know with her 45 metre beam she won’t be going too far up the St. Lawrence Seaway. These are ocean vessels here, coming down through the Strait of Belle Isle from the Atlantic Ocean.
Within 45 minutes we are through the Traffic Division and into the up-bound shipping lane when we have to slow down again, this time for the Jaeger Arrow, flying the Bahamian flag.
Harald pumps the holding tank and continues his vigil of the shower pan pump every 30 minutes. We cannot determine the source of the water coming in from the wall of the head beside the companionway but strongly suspect it is related to the continued rattle when we run the engine.
By 11:00 the wind is up and coming from the southwest. That wasn’t forecasted and totally the direction Perce told us to avoid. Well we’re half way across so we’ll enjoy the 7 knots of speed while we can. Fortunately the swells are less than a metre as we approach St. John Island.
Initially we had thought we’d head to Reefs Harbour for the shortest possible run but with the weather cooperating we altered our course at the onset to land at Port au Choix instead: further down the peninsula and a safe harbour.
The Long Range Mountains have been visible all day
After some deliberation as to which of the three wharfs is favoured, we settled on sharing the one at the head of the bay with a 50 foot sailboat from Nova Scotia.
Securing our lines at 3:30 we had the opportunity to meet some of the crew of Rum Hart. The family of five had just arrived after an overnight run from Mary’s Harbour, Labrador. We are envious of their visit to the Tourngat Mountains, polar bears and all! The father is German and proudly tells us he started sailing at the age of 20 months in the North Sea.
After plugging into shore power, our first in three weeks, we celebrate our arrival by raising our Newfoundland courtesy flag and changing the time on the cabin clock.
Dinner out is the plan so we walk the short distance along the shore to the Anchor Cafe as recommended in our cruising guide. The front entrance is worth the visit, but the fish chowder and the fish tacos are worth staying for! I am thrilled when told there is just one piece of bake apple (cloudberry) pie left. We enjoy it warm with vanilla ice cream at the recommendation of our waitress.
The waitress (and we suspect, owner) explains that with fewer tourists visiting the area since the onset of Covid, they are no longer serving the “traditional Newfoundland dishes” as advertised. Serving mostly locals for the last two summers, they have altered their menu to food these people wouldn’t be making in their own homes. Makes sense, but I was considering a plate of Jiggs dinner!
She also tells us she has a terrible fear of being out on the water so will not go on a boat outside of the village’s bay. Apparently many humpback whales visit here so her bucket list includes seeing one from shore on the Pointe Riche Peninsula. (Our ears perk up at the possible chance of seeing a humpback!)
We also hear about the fish plant once employing 1500 and now only 150 as the operation is fully automated. About 100 boats bring their fish to the plant, where it is processed and sent mostly overseas. No wonder we cannot find fish in the grocery stores. Or bake apple berries. People catch fish and pick their own berries. It would be nice though for the few of us who don’t have our own supply.
The sun is setting on our walk back to the the wharf. We stop for some produce and then begin our usual review of weather and charts and hurricane tracking.
We just might have to sit somewhere for a few days.
First Newfoundland Sunset
Another awesome and quiet sleep brings us to Monday and 18’C in the sunshine.
After breakfast, Rum Hart departs to find some cod jigging before heading across the Gulf to Nova Scotia. We walk around the end of the bay and find ourselves at the Coast Guard station. One of the officers is on the dock so we begin a conversation with him, mostly about the weather and the best conditions for us to head further “up” the coast. (South is referred to as “up”.)
It is decided it would be wise to get a few miles under the keel so we opt to head the few short miles to Port Saunders. He was kind enough to call the harbour master to ask if there is room for us at the wharf and exactly where we should dock. We are pleased to read in our cruising guide that there is also a boat service centre at the wharf.
We ask the officer about their Coast Guard services here. They had just 12 “tasks” this season for pleasure boats, two were for the same boat, but the 40’ fishing boats sometimes need help too.
We’re off the wharf at 12:30 with the help of a passing fisherman who shares some information with us about being a fisherman here. They are all unionized: told where to go, when and what to catch, based on their purchased quotas. This is the case even though many own their own boats. The fisheries are taking mostly lobster now and the shrimp season has all but ended.
We motor sail for about 3 miles around the peninsula and then actually sail about 10 miles down the south shore after passing Pointe Riche Lighthouse, all the way to Kepler Island. A lovely relaxing afternoon sail of about 5 knots with no swells.
Port Saunders is a fishing harbour and wharf. We see many large fishing boats are already out of the water for the winter.
We’re secure by 3:30 and head up the ladder to visit the boat repair shop and to get the lay of the land.
After some conversation with Ambrose, he suggests the water coming in beside the shower floor might be from a loose hose or clamp. He suggests we cut open the wall in the head to check the fresh water intake hose: a simple fix but a complicated and very disruptive procedure.
We are given the names of two electricians and a diesel mechanic. (Yes, another one.) They will all come tomorrow.
“Steve” stops by in his shiny, new pick up truck. (Selling trucks is the business to be in here!) The usual questions. He is a retired fisherman, with lots of stories to share. He used to fish The Labrador Sea, 200 miles off shore in up to 60 knot winds. Hearing his story and seeing the equipment on these boats, I can understand why fishing is considered one of the top 10 most dangerous professions. He tells us how his mother used to kiss him and his brothers every day before leaving for work. “You b’ys aren’t coming home”.
Harald installs the fender boards between our large fenders and the wharf wall and we use our extra 50 feet of shore power cord. It is nice to have the shore power after weeks without it: toaster, electric frying pan and kettle!
Harvey and his parents call for a nice visit and then I scrub the cockpit and put up the enclosure.
Harald starts the bathroom “reno”.
Hello Port Saunders