The Last, But Important Stop On The Quebec Shore
We rise with the relief of a quiet night and gratitude for another day to continue on our journey, as today we will travel to Riviere Saint Paul, where my great grandfather was born. This will be our last stop on the Quebec North Shore before crossing to Newfoundland. We anticipate this to be a special day.
It is cool and grey when we pass by the homes in Portage Bay and we encounter fog crossing to Havre Mistanoque.
My daily dose of Gravol (and the exhaustion of last night) has me soon ready for a nap so Harald takes the helm and along with the auto helm gets us to the bay below Vieux Fort where we are passed by another sailboat heading west. There are not many pleasure boats in this area so a rare sight, indeed.
A rare sight in these waters
We choose not to take the Champlain Passage (maybe a little gun shy of narrow passages!) and instead take the route from the west, past a few islands but deeper water and wider shores.
RIviere Saint Paul is not visible for some time, but then it appears due north. Many homes line the shore with rounded green hills behind. We know not to proceed past the green marker and the inner harbour of Sebastopol Bay looks too narrow and shallow. There is a reef on the south shore and we have to be mindful of a wind change tomorrow (the tail of Hurricane Henri) so we don’t want to be too close to the east shore. So much to consider!
The engine is still running when a family on jet skis come by to suggest we are out too far in the bay. We politely explain we have considered all the options and are aware of a wind change with severe wind strength coming the next day.
Our next visitors are two gentlemen in an open skiff who have come just to ask the usual questions but also to ask if we need anything. We ask if they know where we can take our garbage and they offer to take it for us. Awesome!
We also ask if they know if the Whiteley Museum is open because we saw a note that it was closed due to renovation. It is about this time I explain to them that my mother was a Chevalier and that my great grandfather was born here. Well! “Harry” is on the phone and making arrangements to have the museum opened for us, regardless, and that “Garland” will be out to see us.
With great relief we are told he will also pick us up so we don’t have to lower the dinghy and outboard to cross to the town dock. “Garland” appears shortly after and with great enthusiasm wants to know about my Chevalier roots. He tells us he has two professors coming to tour the area the next day but he would be happy to pick us up first thing in the morning and to take us to meet some Chevaliers and to visit the museum.
Garland arrives just before 9:00am the next morning and now that we are closer to shore we can see why everyone was concerned about our position in the bay. She looks pretty lonely and vulnerable out there.
Our tour begins up the highway toward Blanc Sablon and the highly recommended lookout. Incredible view!
I will share here an excerpt from the information board at the lookout:
“In 1774, Philip and Nathaniel Lloyd obtained the seigniorial rights for St. Paul’s River from Amandos de Godefroy, previous “sieur de St Paul”. In 1819 these rights were bequeathed to Nathaniel’s adopted son Louis Chevalier, who began fishing salmon at the mouth of the river.
In 1825, the Bonnie Esperance post was sold to John Goddard, one of the wealthiest men on the Coast. William Henry Whiteley later occupied the post, and began an important fishing establishment in the 1860s…..
For thousands of years before the arrival of the White Man, the St. Paul’s RIver (formerly entitled Eskimo River) was used by native peoples. In 1640, a famous battle transpired on Eskimo Island where the Montagnais defeated the Inuit, the latter who suffered the loss of 1000 men in one day….
Towards the end of the 19th century, the massive migration from Newfoundland, the Dunns, Keats, Roberts, Thomas and Spingle families began to settle permanently in the village. Today, St. Paul’s River is renowned for its extraordinary salmon fishing along its 550km stretch of pristine waters.” (The Quebec Labrador Foundation)
Next stop is at the fish plant where we meet the husband of a Chevalier relative. He confirms where we can find his wife and we proceed along our way.
We have to cross the construction zone of the new bridge and rebuilt highway, a $16m project but definitely will be an improvement. Local men have been hired to construct the new bridge on a barge and from there it will be lowered into place with large cranes. The new highway appears to be a great expansion as we pass by the areas of recently blasted granite.
It is clear Garland is a wealth of knowledge, only proven later when he tells us he gives historical presentations at the local school and was the subject of the documentary, “A Place of Tide and Time”….on our viewing list when we get home.
The Chevaliers all live in one area, at Chevalier Point. Apparently, they have always kept to themselves. I tell Garland the Chevaliers of modern day are not like that!
Soon we arrive at the home of Harold Chevalier where we meet 90 year old Harold and his two sisters who are there painting his kitchen. He has lived in this one home his entire life. We tell the story of our journey and why this day is so important to me. Fortunately, I have brought the envelope of family heritage information and photos which are shared around the kitchen. Harold does not recall my aunt and uncle visiting here 13 years ago but he is interested in the photo I have of that occasion.
Garland then takes us to the grocery store promising to pick us up in 30 minutes. With the grocery prices here, we could be out of money in less time! The red grapes at $12 per kilo will not be in our grocery cart. We get the essentials, checking the expiry dates on everything.
The ride back to the boat is a wet one as the wind is now at least 20 knots on the bow. Harald is soaked and we have to wipe down all of the groceries before storing them. (A wine box does not survive a salt water bath without damage.)
With many thanks, we arrange to call Garland in the morning with our plans to go to shore and we begin to prepare the boat for the expected 90km winds from the northwest.
secured the sails: more wraps on the foresail and extra sail ties on the main
lowered more anchor chain
removed the cockpit enclosure (after a very early dinner of BBQd chicken and a quick game of Skipbo - took our mind off the expected storm)
Harald prepared a small bed for me in the aft cabin where a rolling sea is more comfortable
laid out foul weather gear and lifejackets
positioned emergency flashlights
The adrenaline has me knitting like a fiend while Harald reads. I continue to visit the cockpit for an update and to take photos of the dark clouds appearing in the north. At 7:00pm we are treated to a lovely setting sun and now the storm clouds have taken on a peach hue.
With each visit to the cockpit, I report the clouds seem to be moving east and out to the open strait. The threat of rain and thunderstorms has passed but not the wind. We relax a bit but the roll is building so I soon retire to my wee nest, hoping for some sleep.
Harald’s night is not so good: up several times checking the anchor. I wake at 7:00 to find him laying on the settee in full yellow foulies. Please do not get the impression I slept like a baby while he kept us safe: the waves and the wind kept me awake with the odd interruption of sleep. I was very aware of each time he went out the companionway, with the strict instructions to wear a life jacket. My night was just a bit more comfortable as I lay with the covers over my head trying to hide from the “scream” of the wind.
It is very difficult to explain what 40+ knots (up to 85km) of wind can sound like. It builds to a pitch that sounds like a scream, or leaves one with the impression that it will continue to build until it explodes. We have to remember, this is “just” 40 knots….we know others who have spent nights in much greater wind, but for us, this is monumental. We believe our anchor will hold, but sometimes it seems the bow of the boat is lifting out of the water. Another short night. (or long, depending on your perspective)
The forecast is not very favourable for the morning, so we decide to let Garland know we think we should stay with the boat and hopefully get to shore on Sunday.
But during our coffee and Bailey’s, the next morning, with me still in bed reading, we hear the familiar “anybody home?” Garland comes aboard and patiently waits while I dash around the cabin, sorting laundry, getting dressed and wolfing down a bowl of Cheerios.
The wind has diminished for our quick run to shore. Harald stays with the boat but Garland takes me to his house where he leaves me with his car so I can run to the museum for good wifi, between laundry loads….and that coveted shower!
At the museum I meet Francisco, who is working on his post doctorate studies through The Smithsonian Institution. He is very helpful with my project to get the blog and photos updated as I struggle with wifi and uncooperative devices. I have a quick tour of the museum between laundry loads. The photos of my ancestors do not escape me. I am very pleased to have some of the same photos from my Aunt Laurie Chevalier, with names of those pictured inscribed on the back. The names are now recorded by Francisco and I expect will become part of this recorded history. The museum also includes a model of the cod trap, as designed by William Whiteley - this changed the cod fishing industry forever.
“By using the cod trap, fishermen could greatly increase their catch and did not have to stay out in their boats all day long. This “new” technology became the mainstay of the inshore cod fishery throughout Atlantic Canada for the next 100 years.” (Whiteley Museum)
Garland suggests he pick Harald up and bring him in for a shower and lunch, as we expect the cafe next to the museum to open soon. I think Harald was looking forward to some quiet, and maybe even a nap, but Garland is off in his skiff and soon Harald is with me on shore.
Showers and laundry complete, we head back to the museum for a chat with “Perce”, a local diesel mechanic. Harald explains all the problems we’ve been having, including the new rattle which we believe is the shaft vibrating. Perce agrees we’re probably ok to continue on our way.
He also shows us the free Windy weather app used by the local fishermen, not the same as the one we’ve been using. After a brief tutorial we agree it is more comprehensive and probably more trustworthy than the one we paid for. We all agree tomorrow is the day to cross over the strait to Newfoundland
Patty’s Diner is now open so at 4:00 we take in a late lunch with Garland and Francisco. The fish and chips is delicious but the Caesar salad is the real treat!
The conversation is more personal so we learn more about our new friends and they learn about us. We grab a quick photo and Garland runs us back to Seabiscuit.
The goodbyes and thanks are short but meaningful. We watch and wave as Garland returns to shore; we know this was another day to remember.
Time for a quick photo between lunch and our ride back to the boat.