Homeward Bound
Our departure from Fortune Harbour is in the early afternoon, with several different anchorage opportunities for the night. We are not in a rush as we enter the long and very deep channel running south toward Lewisporte. Passing Exploits Islands to the east, we come to the realization we are now starting the final leg of this summer’s journey.
The Surgeon Cove Light, now The Escape Inn, sits atop Surgeon Cove Point, beckoning to us to make the hike there some day. Some day when we anchor in the Upper Harbour, maybe with Lewisporte friends. So many thoughts fill our minds in the grey mist - memories from this and previous summers and plans for next year.
Surgeon Cove Point
The marine forecast reminds us of the anticipated wind and high swells in the next few days so we decide not to stop in Exploits and to continue on to one more new harbour - South Samson Island - just another eight nautical miles to the southeast.
We are now sailing through new territory, even though we have passed by Matthew Lane both to the east and to the west. Exploits Islands is now on our port side and Duck Islands to starboard.
I spot another sailboat running south between Black Island and Exploits. Within range I can see the yellow dodger and we immediately identify it as Yellow Jacket. So we meet again! They too appear to be heading to South Samson Island.
The entrance is narrow and we have been warned of the 3 foot water on the east side and I can see how I will have to manoeuvre around the little point protruding from the west shore. First times are never easy.
After giving Yellow Jacket a few moments to settle, we cruise around the small island in the inner harbour and anchor just past them along the western shore. Stacey and his crew have taken the mooring ball at the lee of the small island. There are two other balls but we prefer to anchor and do so protected from the forecasted northerly wind.
Harald lowers the dinghy and we paddle around the island, ending along side Yellow Jacket. Stacey is napping in the cockpit but his sailing partner comes from below and calls over to us for a visit. We exchange some stories and head back for our supper. They plan to leave tomorrow for Lewisporte, even though the forecast is not favourable.
Our sleep is "rolly" and the wind is persistent, running at twenty-five knots (45km) since 1:00am. We are so grateful 99% of our nights have been calm and quiet. I wake unable to prepare breakfast - a first - and sit in the cockpit sipping coffee as Harald prepares yogurt and fruit. The forecast includes a "gale warning". A warning of sustained surface winds, or frequent gusts, in the range of 34 knots. So in other words, it is worse out of the harbour.
We watch as Yellow Jacket puts a reef in their mainsail and leaves. From our position we can clearly see the open water but they cannot from behind the island. The sea is white and frothy with large swells. They do proceed and we are rather surprised they are not wearing lifejackets.
We spend the day puttering at small chores, reading and playing cards - and of course regularly checking the marine forecast on the VHF radio. We do not have cellular coverage to obtain the local forecast so this is all we have for making our next decision. In two days we could have three to five metre waves and a north wind. North wind would be okay, as it would be coming from behind us but the waves do not appeal to us.
Randy and Mary Ellen are back in Lewisporte but Tammy and Roy are still at Little Bay Islands. They could be delayed a few more days. It is worth reminding each other that we are glad we are here and did not travel up the Northern Peninsula. It would have been a long and rough journey back south.
Seabiscuit spends the day in constant motion, rain starts at 3:00pm and the outer bay fills with fog. Harald lowers the centreboard which gives us some relief. He raises the dinghy in preparation of tomorrow’s departure with the plan to go just five more miles south to Knight’s Island. By bedtime, the wind has slowed but is still coming from the southwest.
Preparing to leave in the morning
We are up at 6:00am. It is still dark on Thursday morning, which is to be our last morning on the water. The wind finally turned to the north overnight and now the little basin is very quiet, but the air is cold. Southern Labrador is expecting four to five metre seas today. We wonder about Arthur and Sheila on Tantalus.
I prepare oatmeal and coffee and we ready the boat for departure at 7:30. Back in our full coastal gear, hats and gloves we head out into the grey sky and light rain, with just sixteen nautical miles to our home port. We “make a run for it”.
The calm before the worst sea state - on our last day
And run we did! With the wind and waves pushing us from behind we passed our hull speed and reached up to 9.6 knots. It is noisy with the wind and the whoosh of water as we surf down the waves. The swells are two to three metres. This is the worst sea state of our entire 600 nautical mile journey but we are so close to home, we push through. Once south of Sivier Island we are more sheltered and the remaining seven miles are filled with the anticipation of being back at our home port amongst friends.
It is still windy and wet so instead of contacting those friends to meet us at the dock, I call the marina. Brian, the manager, answers and promises to have personnel there to “catch us”.
Ahhhhh.....we can hear her sigh
Robert and Clarey are there waiting, in their foulies and rubber boots, welcoming smiles on their faces. They secure our lines and we step ashore; hugs all around.
First stop is the clubhouse. It is only 9:30 and the weather is not suitable for working on boats, so we expect to find friends having breakfast, watching the news and catching up on emails. Mike and Ann, Tom and Clarissa are in “their” spots. Mark arrives shortly after. We chat briefly and then make the short walk to Kinden’s Bakery & Cafe. We are hungry!
The rueben sandwich, spinach salad and lattes are more than satisfying. Corey and Chanda (SV Victoria) arrive and sit near enough for us to introduce ourselves. We have chatted with Corey over Instagram and have followed each other’s journeys. It is indeed a pleasure to finally meet.
The day is still young but we are on an exhausted high. It is good to be “home”. We have two more weeks before we head home to Ontario. Time to visit and hear summer stories, share potluck suppers and work together preparing our boats for the winter. We do not let the grey sky dampen our spirits.
