The Mingan Archipelago
Departing from Cloridorme was rather uneventful but crossing the dreaded Honguedo Strait to Anticosti not one we really want to remember. I won’t share much of the details except that the weather was nothing like the forecast and we had to work hard for nine hours to keep the boat upright in very strong wind, salt spray in the cockpit and larger swells than we’ve been in to date.
We arrived at Port Menier, knowing the supply boat is expected on Sundays and no mooring balls in sight. We anchored off the west shore, with the Bella Desgagnes arriving shortly after and departing again as I ate Cheerios for supper and crawled into bed at 7:30.
The following day we saw a flatter sea and less than 3 knots of wind until we crossed the shipping lanes and approached The Mingan Archipelago. Kept company by many flocks of Northern Gannets, we arrive and sail between La Grande Ile and Rocher a la Proie (Quarry) after a 45 nautical mile day. Rather than choosing one of the 4 remaining mooring balls, we anchored closer to the west side anticipating westerly winds for the next few days. We plan to stay, rest and enjoy this magnificent place, another milestone.
Campfires on shore add to the ambiance but we are grateful for our Espar diesel furnace as we consider how chilly it must be in those tents as we watch the thermometer drop to 7’C overnight.
Watching the many excursion boats with several dozen curious hikers aboard we calculate the best time to go to shore is early in the morning or after 3:30 when they all depart for home. In a quick run at 3:30 on Monday we find the trail that goes across to the south side of I’le Quarry and view, for the first time, the limestone monoliths and the extraordinary shoreline in an ebb tide. The wildflowers and bog areas are certainly reminiscent of tundra, which is confirmed by the park ranger we meet while walking. Maritime tundra brings all new flora and fauna! We will return tomorrow for a longer hike and picnic lunch.
Tuesday is a splendid sunny and warm day! Up early, I make sandwiches and prepare breakfast so we can be back on shore before 9:00. The rangers have arrived and we’re told are preparing for another 200 visitors today.
I’ve included many photos of the shoreline and the flowers but the only wildlife we spotted was one harbour seal on our walk around the east branch of the island. The ranger told us there are some fox and moose on the islands and any other creatures that can come across on the ice in the winter from Anticosti Island. We are relieved not to have to worry about bears or snakes!
Hills on the north shore near Mingan only appeared on day two.
Just one of many curious harbour seals we will see in coming days.
Limestone slabs on north shore of I’le Quarry
I’ve appealed to a friend for some help in identifying these ducks. Thanks Irene! Female and young Common Eiders. Not as flamboyant as their male counterparts.
The limestone monoliths remind us of Tobermory, Ontario.
This island, part of the National Park infrastructure, includes several tent sites with shore access and a few oTENTiks - similar to what we know as “yurts”. These canvas structures sit on a raised deck which also houses a smaller shelter for a gas BBQ. The interior appears to have a table for about 6 people, a wood stove and bunk beds. Quite simple, yet appears comfortable.
There is also a large wooden building which can be used by visitors for shelter, cooking a meal and finding first aid if needed. There are many outhouse privies throughout the park: a welcome stop while on a 3 hour hike.
Visitors are strongly encouraged to remain on the wooden walkway “trails” to protect the sensitive plant life. This also makes for easier walking especially through the bog areas
This morning we woke to the park staff arriving with a fresh supply of firewood for the campsites. Driving their small boat almost onshore, then met by the park’s ATV, finishing with unloading by hand and delivering to each site around the bay.
All campers must arrive on park boats and then carry or push their gear to their sites in the provided carts. Wilderness camping with a few added easy bits! But I don’t think you would come here just to experience camping; you’d come for the experience of what the archipelago has to offer in its beauty and the chance to visit something new.
I row to shore Thursday afternoon for one more chance to walk the shore and click a few more photos so I can keep this memory alive once back home. Harald continued with some maintenance and got some assistance with our touchy outboard from “Claude” who has visited us now for the last three days. Claude does not speak but we manage to express our thanks with sign language as he will accept nothing else but our gratitude. Once again we are the recipients of a friendly helping hand from another boater.
My phone calls and messages to Club Nautique Havre Saint Pierre remain unanswered so we hope they will have a slip for us when we arrive tomorrow. This will be our last stop for provisioning and fuel for several days.
