Remembrance and Celebration
Today is Canada Day, or in Newfoundland, a day of remembrance. Since 1917 Newfoundland has called July 1 “Memorial Day”, to remember the loss of approximately 700 soldiers of the 1st Newfoundland Regiment at Beaumont Hamel during the First World War, which broke out 100 years ago this month. Young men from many of the small communities we have visited, left, never to return.
The ceremonies in St. John’s are under cloudy skies, but still many come to pay their respects to the Unknown Soldier, repatriated on May 25 and flown to St. John’s. He is Unknown, but definitely from Newfoundland. He represents all those lost in battle.
Canada Day is always a time of celebration but now, being in Newfoundland, we are also very aware of the somber atmosphere as those around us remember.
Newfoundland’s provincial flower - the pitcher plant
Our mission today, to celebrate this magnificent country, is to walk to the top of Brimstone Head. We set out at 9:30 and begin the twenty minute walk to the base of the hill.
One of the first historic plaques we pass is a tribute to John Henry Simms. He was a twenty-two year old fisherman when he enlisted with the Newfoundland Regiment in September 1914 and left St. John’s harbour on October 4 as one of Newfoundland’s First Five Hundred - The Blue Puttees. He died, a hero, on August 17, in a field hospital.
The walk looks more daunting than it turns out to be. It is well-maintained, with steps and secured chain railings. Many people are already on their descent; all stopping for a brief chat - for us to catch our breath. The view all the way is spectacular - the Change Islands to the west, Fogo below us and to the east and just Atlantic to the north.
Arriving at the summit, we naturally look for whales - seems they have not yet arrived. We pose for a photo taken by a couple who arrived shortly after us. They are from Boston, Ontario - about an hour from our home. Cameras are shared, and so is our flag.
We spend nearly an hour at the summit, admiring the view and conversing with Art and Chris. We meet again at the bottom while we lunch in the shelter of the Lion’s Club work shed.
We are joined by Randy, who we had met earlier while he worked on the new stairs and ramp into the Lion’s Club main building. We are sitting at the campground, maintained by the Lion’s Club. It is nestled along a small bay in the shadow of Brimstone Head. He tells us stories of fishing and life here in Fogo. Art asks if he would be willing to take him fishing and arrangements are made for later that evening.
They also plan to go to the festivities at the Iceberg Arena this afternoon. We decline their offer of a ride, as we made arrangements yesterday when another Randy came by to check on us, courtesy of Lewisporte sailor, Dennis. We rendezvous with her at their home half way back to the wharf. Alisha’s cousin rides with us. She is in Fogo, with her three children, evacuees from Churchill Falls, where her husband remains as one of the skeleton staff keeping the power plant running during the current forest fires there.
Admittance to the arena is free and we are handed Canada flag pins, flags and free fish cakes. Later there is cake and tea. A few vendors display their wares, and some of us purchase a few things for home. Chris, Jill and Katharine are there and we are soon joined by Art and Chris. Families with young children enjoy the games and “bouncy fire truck”. There is music playing and lots of friendly chatter. Art has room in his car for two more, so we accept the ride back to the wharf. It has been a good day, but we still have some energy and know we are leaving tomorrow.
Back at the boat we decide to head out for one more walk - this time along the shore to the “Lookout” over the tickle we will pass through again tomorrow.
Bleak House is now closed but looks worth a visit another time. It was built in 1816 and was probably home to John Slade of Poole, England. It was the principal house of a major firm engaged in all branches of the fishery. It sits prominently looking out over the Fogo Harbour.
Our walk takes us to the Fogo Battery, where four cannons were erected in 1779 and was maintained until 1815.
We discover the signs we have been following for “The Lookout” are actually for the little shop at the base of the battery. Unfortunately, it is closed during our late day walk.
Some fishers are jigging for cod and a group of children are netting baby crabs just for the fun of it.
We’ve walked another hour so it is time to return to the boat for a late supper of leftover fish cakes (compliments of the ladies at the arena) and a beautiful sunset. Tomorrow we leave Fogo Harbour.
