Old Stuff and a Ramble

We wake Sunday morning to the sounds of the fishing boat docked ahead of us preparing to head to the fishing grounds.  They are gone and back by the time we finish our breakfast.   We tidy the boat and pack our little backpack for a morning of hiking and visiting the sights.

The first stop is the Olde Shoppe Museum, just five minutes from the dock.  The owner and curator, Pete Porter, greets us warmly and explains this is his private collection of antiques and historic artifacts. We were aware of his museum after watching Jayne and Mike’s video of their visit several years ago.  We knew it was a “must see” if we ever visited Change Islands.

Pete has the two-room museum set up like an old time store, with glass display cases and a two hundred year old cash register.  The tools, fishing paraphernalia, guns and photos hang on the walls.  The dishes, urns, bottles, tea boxes and rare books sit on shelves, some behind glass. Pete tells the stories behind many of the pieces - he knows the origin and history of every coin, colourful bottle, saw, barrel, tobacco tin and powder horn.  Some of his treasures are from his own heritage here, in Change Islands, but many are also given to him by people from all over the world.  We are in awe of his collection and the knowledge he is so willing to share with each and every visitor.

At the end of our private tour, Pete sits down and plays a delightful reel on his accordion, then invites Harald to select a song on the juke box. He lifts the lid and we watch the arm move to the selected slot, lay the 45 record on the turntable, the needle is lowered and the museum is now filled with the sound of an old Newfoundland folk song.

Pete proudly shows us the photo of himself and The Right Honourable David Johnston and his wife during their visit a few years ago and a Newfoundland license plate autographed by Premier Andrew Furey during his visit last week.

We sign the guest book, make a donation and thank him for the marvellous hour he spent with us.

Not far from the museum is the sign indicating the start of the Squid Jiggers Trail - “Trail begins at the top of the hill. Approximately one hour”.  This turned out to be the most magnificent hike we have probably ever walked in Newfoundland and Labrador.

We walked across rocks and ridges with marvellous views of Fogo Island, Brimstone Head and the Atlantic beyond.  Deep forest and open meadows. Around small coves sheltering cold, clear water.  Passing two cemeteries in green valleys- perhaps where there is less rock. We were grateful for the many boardwalks placed over the swampy parts and the stairs that took us to heights unattainable without them.  A little patch of bakeapple (cloudberry) brings a welcome and refreshing snack. The signs for the trail appear just when we think maybe we have missed something or have gone too far without noticing a little red stone marker or a red and white painted post showing us the way.

Three hours later we arrive at North Tickle, a lovely enclave of old salt box houses and stages, mostly refurbished but reflecting a life from before.  We are still almost two kilometres from the boat.  Along the way we meet three painters from Ontario, perched on their stools, easels erected and holding the beginnings of their interpretation of the harbour before them.  We stop for a short chat and continue past “Seven Oakes Inn”, the community centre and finally our landmark, the empty United Church.

Back at the boat we practically collapse in the cockpit, share a bag of chips and fall asleep in the heat of the afternoon, wallowing in an exceptional but tiring day.